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Repentance

First ascent: John Bragg & Rick Wilcox, winter 1973. First solo Steve House
By: Elio Bonfanti
Area: United States of America, Group: Cathedral ledge, Country: New Hampshire, Region: North Conway

Very interesting line with conditions - and consequently difficulties - which vary considerably from one year to the next. In some seasons it is an almost exclusively mixed outing.

GETTING THERE

To reach Conway start from either Portland or Boston, two or three hours by car. Alternatively, Montreal lies 4 hours away by car.

ACCESS

From the center of Conway drive west down the River Road for circa 1.5km to reach the West Side Road which leads to the base of Cathedral ledge. The drip is reached in just a couple of minutes on foot from the car park.

ROUTE

P1: 35m 85° start.
P2: 35m some 95° if on ice, otherwise M6 mixed, hard to protect.
P3: 30m 85/90° with difficult climb past the wedged block at the end.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route

GEAR

Full ice climbing rack. Camalot up to #3

NOTES

Period: January, February
Hotel: MOTEL CLARENDON
3537 White Mt Hwy - North Conway, NH 03860
Telephone: 603-356-3551 - 800-433-3551
info@clarendonmotel.com
Mailing Address: P O Box 241 Intervale, NH 03845
With small kitchen.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

An Ice climber’s Guide to Northern New England, third edition, 2002, by S. Peter Lewis & Rick Wilcox

NEice is a local ice climbing site for New England, New Hampshire and Vermont. This contains interesting information about first ascents and the current conditions. http://neice.com

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DIFFICULTY

III/5

FACE

East

LENGTH

100m

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