Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowNewsarrowBen Bransby flashes E9 in Britain

Ben Bransby flashes E9 in Britain

10.11.2000 by

British climber Ben Bransby pushes standards by flashing Carmen Picasso E9 6c after seeing toprope ascent

A few weeks ago the 21 year-old Britsh climber Ben Bransby flashed the bold and technical 'Carmen Piccaso' E9 6c at Gorple in Yorkshire. This route, first climbed by John Dunne three years ago, has only scant protection and takes a bulging prow to a sloping crux around the lip.

Bransby first on-sighted the nearby 'Eternal' E7 6b and then watched the toprope ascent of Carmen Piccaso by Scottish climber Dave MacLeod. Bransby then flashed the route with the gear in place, but subsequently removed the gear and reled the route, placing the gear as he climbed. He found gear on the lip that John Dunne had not and consequently felt the route to be more like E7/8 6c.

Bransby has been making a name for himself recently in the British climbing scene with his swift repeats of cutting-edge trad routes. His ascent of Carmen Picasso is remarkable in that E9 used to be the top end of the British trad climbing scale. It was first established in 1986 by Johnny Dawes and his 'The Indian Face' on Cloggy and was breached only last year by John Dunne's 'Divided Years' in Ireland, Neil Bentley's 'Equilibrium' and Mark Edward's 'Rewind' in Cornwall, all three graded E10 7a.


  Neil Bentley climbs Equilibrium E10 7a
  PlanetMountain.com's article about Trad climbing in England and Wales
  Rocktalk discussion about Ben Bransby's ascent

Share

SEARCH news

ZONE

CATEGORY

Full text search

AUTHOR

Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Rataplan
    Ripetizione del 20.09.2014L1 6c bella fessura non banale pe ...
    2014-09-23 / oscar meloni
  • Via Paola
    ripetuta per la quarta volta, mi sento di proporre questi gr ...
    2014-09-01 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello
  • Chimera Verticale
    Ripetuta il 29 agosto 2014 con Martin Dejori. Bellissima via ...
    2014-08-30 / Alex Walpoth
  • Costantini - Apollonio
    Caro Checco, gli spit sono rispuntati, qualcuno in sosta, qu ...
    2014-08-29 / Angelo Bon