The routes

1118
Routes in archive
Bepino
Climbing routes
Bepino - Cima Uomo
7a+
Pleasant climb established ground-up by Michele Cagol and Rolando Larcher on the west face of Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites, to the right of Moon Dance (Dimitri Bellomi, Michele Lucchini 2019), subsequently freed by Alessandro Larcher.
Presolana Holiday
Climbing routes
Presolana Holiday - Presolana
7c+
A great climb established ground-up by Angelo Contessi and Leo Gheza between the routes Bosio and Le Medaglie di Matley.
Cojote
Climbing routes
Cojote - Vadena / Pareti di Monticolo
7a
Cojote follows a series of beautiful cracks for 4 pitches (100m) and is broken only by a series of comfortable and airy belay ledges. While the climbing is never more difficult than 7a max, according to Florian Riegler it is...
Opera Buffa
Climbing routes
Opera Buffa - Monte Colodri
7c+
Opera Buffa follows a logical line up the East Face of Monte Colodri and was established ground-up over a period of 4 days in 2020, before being free by both first ascensionists in April 2021.Halfway up pitch 1 the route...
Just a Nibble
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Just a Nibble - Mount Niblock
5.10- M6 R WI5
A great adventure and some fabulous climbing but not without its serious moments. The route is somewhat sheltered from overhead hazard from pitch 10 onwards as it climbs under or on a rib. Expect a long day from a bivy...
Zahnlos
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Zahnlos - Seekofel
WI6/M6
Zahnlos is a mixed climb that rarely comes into condition on the North Face of Seekofel / Croda del Becco above Lake Braies in the Dolomites. The first pitch is very delicate due to the poor rock quality. Plus not...
La Piccozza nella Roccia
Climbing routes
La Piccozza nella Roccia - Punta Centrale dei Sfulmini
VI+
Piccozza nella Roccia provides 10 pitches, almost all circa 50m long, up Cima Principale degli Sfulmini in the heart of the Brenta Dolomites. All belays are equipped with pegs and threads, but on the pitches only pegs and cams were uses....
Last Minute
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Last Minute - Rienztal
WI 6
Last Minute high up in Rienztal is a slender drip exposed to the sun. All pegs used during the first ascent were left in-situ.
Eisradius
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Eisradius - Rienztal
WI 5
Eisradius high up in Rienztal is a beautiful ice climb which rarely comes into condition, with a panorama that is a strong contender for the most beautiful in the Dolomites.
Surprise - Sorpresa
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Surprise - Sorpresa - Nasswand
WI 6+, M6
Interesting mixed climb up Nasswand / Croda Bagnata, which rarely comes into condition. The first pitches are hidden from view, while the chimneyon the left provides two excitign pitches up steep ice.
Cascata Toboga
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Cascata Toboga - Pala delle Masenade
WI 4
Beautiful ice climb, not particularly high nor difficult, which follows the summer rock climb Via Toboga. Facing south, it is ideal for very cold days. The combination of the ski mountaineering approach and return makes this a pleasant and...
Space Shuttle
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Space Shuttle - Kleine Rodelheilspitze (Sass dla Lùesa)
M9-, WI5
Demanding four-pitch mixed climb on the NW Face of Kleine Rodelheilspitze (Sass dla Lùesa)
Aurona
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Aurona - Sas dle Diesc / Sasso delle Dieci
M9 WI6
Interesting and demanding mixed climb on the north face of Sas dle Diesc (Sasso delle Dieci), Fanes, Dolomites, first ascended by Manuel Baumgartner and Simon Kehrer on 28/11/2020.
Illogika
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Illogika - Monte Nero di Presanella
M5 AI4+, III
The mixed climb Illogika takes a line to the left of Couloir dell’H on Monte Nero di Presanella (Adamello - Presanella). An old peg was found on pitch 2, at present it is unclear whether it belongs to an...
Angels and Demons
Climbing routes
Angels and Demons - Caporal
8a+
An absolute masterpiece on Caporal, initiated in 2005 by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina and then abandoned after Farina's untimely death. Acting on Marlier's invitation, Federica Mingolla and Leo Ghezza completed the route in 2020 and Mingolla made the...


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