The routesClassic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
![Excalibur](/uploads/img/3/92495.jpg)
Excalibur - Marmolada ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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II/4+
Excalibur is undoubtedly the most beautiful icefall in the valley. Three steps connected together create an exemplary line, aesthetically perfect. The first drip which enters the water is highly characteristic... place protection immediately to avoid the cold bath!Sottoguda represents an...
![First Time](/uploads/img/3/124776.jpg)
First Time - Monte Fop ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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WI 5
First Time in Val Ombretta, opposite the south face of the Marmolada,l is not particularly long, but its two pitches are on excellent quality ice, set in a truly unique ambient. Given its altitude and the fact that it faces...
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Gitanes bleu - Monte Taburlo ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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WI5, M6+
Interesting mixed climb on the north face of Monte Taburlo in the Ampezzo Dolomites. Three initial pitches, not particularly difficult but not to be underestimated, are followed by majestic ice pitches. The most exciting pitch is certainly the first frozen wall, 50 steep...
![Il regalo della Befana](/uploads/img/3/94216.jpg)
Il regalo della Befana - Santo Stefano di Cadore ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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II/4
Interesting and fun drip at the start of Val Grande in a quiet setting. Although the route was climbed in two pitches, we suggest the second pitch is split into two.
![La Bella](/uploads/img/3/100669.jpg)
La Bella - Cima del Focobon ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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AI5+, 90°
Alpine outing up the north face of Focobon, offering great but somewhat severe climbing due to the poor pro. La Bestia is technically harder but offers more pro with cams on the rock. Both La Bella and La Bestia ascend...
![La Bella Addormentata](/uploads/img/3/93678.jpg)
La Bella Addormentata ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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6+
Beautiful icefall located close to Lochere close to Lake Caldonazzo in the Valsugana, right at the start of the narrow Val Scura. This drip rarely, if ever, comes into contiona and since it's situated at a low altitude it offers...
![La Bestia](/uploads/img/3/100670.jpg)
La Bestia - Cima del Focobon ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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AI5+, 90°
Alpine outing up the north face of Focobon, offering great but somewhat severe climbing due to the poor pro. La Bestia is technically harder but offers more pro with cams on the rock. Both La Bella and La Bestia ascend...
![La chula](/uploads/img/3/126424.jpg)
La chula - Val Travenanzes ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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WI 5+
Beautiful and by no means easy ice climb with a slightly overhanging exit.
![La Piccola Sgualdrina](/uploads/img/3/100844.jpg)
La Piccola Sgualdrina - Val Pramper - Val di Zoldo ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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M8 WI5 III
La Piccola Sgualdrina is a mixed climb in Val Pramper, Dolomites, immediately next to the famous icefall Gran Dama. "All things considered I believe this route become a classic mixed outing, never trivial but not too difficult either. The line...
![La Spada nella Roccia](/uploads/img/3/92501.jpg)
La Spada nella Roccia - Marmolada ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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II/5
La Spada nella Roccia is a stupendous drip which forms from a cave. It was first climbed by Maurizio Gallo in the 1980's and represented an important step forward for piolet traction in the Western Alps.Sottoguda represents an obligatory ice...
![Madre Tierra](/uploads/img/3/101877.jpg)
Madre Tierra - Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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M6+, AI5+
Madre Tierra is a huge mixed climb up the NW Face of Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in the Zoldo Dolomites, first ascended by Diego Toigo and Santiago Padrós after a first attempt a week earlier with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero...
![Night Love](/uploads/img/3/99471.jpg)
Night Love - Val d’Ansiei ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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WI5+
The ice climb Night Love rarely comes into condition but when it does, it offers fascinating climbing coupled with an extremely easy approach.
![Pelmoon](/uploads/img/3/100677.jpg)
Pelmoon - Monte Pelmo ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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M7, AI5, WI5
Mixed climb up the north of the Pelmo, established over 2 days. Pelmoon starts up the obvious gully to the right of Forca rossa gully. A bolt on the right gully wall has been placed at the start of the...
![Pinocchio](/uploads/img/3/96183.jpg)
Pinocchio - Tofane ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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M8+, WI 5
Mixed ice climb, protected by bolts on the lower section, put up in 2010 by Valentin Riegler and Hannes Lemayr and freed in winter 2013 by Martin and Florian Riegler.
![Psyco Killer](/uploads/img/3/96008.jpg)
Psyco Killer - Tofana di Mezzo ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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IV+, WI7-, D5
The icefall is clearly visible when descending from Forcella Col dei Bos (2331m) towards beautiful Val Travenanzes: look up westwards just before Malga Travenanzes (1965m) to see the drip.Psyco Killer is a "perfect" line which, when in condition, stands out...
![Solo per i tuoi occhi](/uploads/img/3/94219.jpg)
Solo per i tuoi occhi - Monte Pelmo ![](/res/img/star.svg)
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V, WI 5+ XRM
The marvellous icefall which falls directly down from the so-called Pelmo "throne" is impossible to ignore when driving up from Zoppè di Cadore or walking towards Rifugio Venezia A. De Luca (1946m). The icefall requires perfect temperatures due to its...
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