Swiss Route - Grand Capucin

Roberto Rossi
1 / 2
Swiss Route: Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc, Marco Gnaccarini - Ivan Maghella 07/2020
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
C. Asper, M. Bron, M. Grossi, M. Morel 1956
By
Roberto Rossi
Orientation
S
Length
300m
Difficulty
ED-, 7b max.
Obligatory difficulty
5+

Route



The Swiss Route is historic line that leads to the summit of Grand Capucin. If combind with 'O sole mio' by bearing left beneath the obvious roof, it transforms into the easiest outing on the wall. There are many in-situ pegs along the route and belays... consequently it's hard to get lost!
Access
From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and left to then continue at altitude towards the inconfoundable Grand Capucin. The route starts to the left, about half-way up the snow gully that separates Grand Capucin from Trident du Tacul, at the base of the obvious large corner and terrace. Descent
Abseil down the route. Check the state of the belays, especially at the start of the season! Gear
A set of nuts and friends up to #3.




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29/07/2010 rf
Bella via che alterna tratti un po' dubbi a tratti bellissimi, ambiente "de paura", di una bellezza rara. Una nota... la relazione qui riportata non riesco a riconoscerla neanche dopo aver fatto la via! Se non siete pratici del Capucin, cercate altre relazioni!
21/02/2009 Tommaso Lamatia
Fantastica via da non sottovalutare. una delle migliori salite fin ora, anche con un bel volo sulle fessure parallele prima del tetto verso la fine della via.
29/09/2003 alex ostorero
Granito rosso fuoco ,via logica e abbastanza continua,da consigliare l'uscita per O sole mio
28/07/2003 Paolo Mainotti
Bella via in un magnifico ambiente.Rimane pero' il "premio di consolazione" del Gran Cap (per chi va su queste difficolta' il Monte Bianco offre di meglio...)