Umbras - Punta Cusidore
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Rolando Larcher
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Planetmountain
Very technical climbing on rock which is reminiscent of the Verdon. The route is bolted but at times there are very long run-outs.
Of the routes that I've first ascended in Sardinia, this one has true character, like Hotel Supramonte and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco on Punta Giradili. This is a magic excellent trio which sets itself apart. The routes are very similar in terms of their remarkable beauty and difficulty, but extremely diverse due to the characteristics of the rock.
From Nuoro drive to Oliena, then follow the instructions in the climbing guidebooks to reach Punta Cusidore.
AccessFrom Funtana Iscandula reach Preda ‘e Littu and then follow the path to the start of the classic route Spigolo della Punta Cusidore. From here traverse left and coast the north face to a chain. Scramble up the ramp (rope, Grade II) and reach the start (1 hour from the fountain, 500m heigh gain).
ItineraryP1: 6c+
P2: 7b+
P3: 7a+
P4: 7c+
P5: 8a
P6: 7c
- First 55m abseil to 5th belay, clip quickdraws as you rap
- Second abseil in diagonal to 4th belay, clip quickdraws as you rap
- Third abseil to belay 3
- Fourth abseil exactly 60m long (beware!) to 1st belay. Alternatively abseil to belay 2
- Fifth abseil 60m to ground
Two 60m ropes, 11 quickdraws, some kevlar threads and slings for some spikes. The route is bolted but at times there are very long run-outs.
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