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Kaos - Monte Gallo

Italy>Sicily>Apennines>Sicilian Apennines>Monte Gallo

Maurizio Oviglia

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Kaos: Luca Giupponi on pitch 7 (7b+) of Kaos. Photo Maurizio Oviglia.

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher & Maurizio Oviglia, 15/16/18 March 2009. redpoint 19/03/2009

Maurizio Oviglia

Orientation

North

Length

325m

Height

400m

Difficulty

Obligatory difficulty

7a+ oblig, expo

Route

Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through overhang, demanding and varied, with some impressive pitches. Exposure guaranteed. Bolts at times run-out with difficult obligatory sections.

Getting there

From Palermo reach the beach at Mondello.

Access

From Mondello enter the Monte Gallo Reserve (5 € entrance fee for car) and continue to the lighthouse, park here. Continue on foot along the road to where it ends, then along a narrow path which coasts the cliff to the end close to some large boulders. traverse the scree slope and reach the base of the wall and ivy plants. Coast the base to the start of the route (25 minutes from the lighthouse, 45 minutes from Mondello)

Itinerary

P1: 7a+
P2: 6a+
P3: 6c
P4: 6c+
P5: 6c+
P6: 7c
P7: 7b+
P8: 7a

Descent

- 1st 50m abseil to belay 7, clip the quickdraws as you descend
- 2nd abseil to belay 6, clip the quickdraws as you descend
- 3rd abseil, 60m, to the ledge and comfortable belay 4, clip some quickdraws
- 4th abseil to belay 3
- 5th abseil to belay 1, 60m
- 6th abseil back to the ground
All belays are equipped with stainless steel maillon rapide

Gear

Stainless steel bolts, some glue-in bolts on fragile rock. Some slings. Take 12 quickdraws, 60m ropes and slings for the threads.

Kaos Monte Gallo - Kaos: Luca Giupponi forging new ground on the 7th pitch. Photo Rolando Larcher.

Kaos Monte Gallo - Kaos: Rolando Larcher on pitch 7 (7b+) of Kaos. Photo Maurizio Oviglia

Kaos Monte Gallo - Kaos: Every pitch overhangs between 5 and 10m. Photo Rolando Larcher.

Kaos Monte Gallo - Kaos: Maurizio Oviglia, Sicilian limestone and the cobalt sea. Photo Rolando Larcher.

Kaos Monte Gallo - Kaos: Maurizio Oviglia starts to open the first pitch of Kaos. Photo Rolando Larcher.

Kaos Monte Gallo - Kaos: Hot Sicily! Rolando Larcher belaying on Kaos. Photo Luca Giupponi.

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14/12/2009 mirto monaco

sabato 12 dicembre abbiamo compiuto la prima ripetizione pulita di questa spettacolare via che tanto ci ha coinvolto per l'ambiente in cui si trova e la bellezza dei tiri, complimenti agli apritori, immagino la felicità che avranno provato e l'adrenalina in apertura!Mirto Monaco e Cristian Leube

Beauty

First ascent

Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher & Maurizio Oviglia, 15/16/18 March 2009. redpoint 19/03/2009

Maurizio Oviglia

Orientation

North

Length

325m

Height

400m

Difficulty

Obligatory difficulty