Il lato oscuro - Sergent
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Maurizio Oviglia
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Il lato oscuro: Il lato oscuro, 220 m, II/S2+/6c max (6b+ obligatory), 5th pitch. Valle dell'Orco, Italy. Photo by Paolo Seimandi
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Maurizio Oviglia, Eugenio Pinotti & Paolo Seimandi, 6-7/10/2008
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
SW
Length
220m
Difficulty
II/S2+/6c max
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Varied and interesting climing with some great pitches which need to be protected with trad gear and two difficult bolt-protected slabs.
Getting there
From Turin head east along the Ss460 towards Rivarolo, Cuorgnè, Pont Canavese, to the start of Valle dell'Orco. Continue to the end of the tunnel, just before Ceresole, then turn off left and park next to the campsite. Car thieves operate slightly further up the valley. Access
Continue along the road until access is barred, where it begins to descend. On the slab on the left there is a kairn. Walk up through the wood then the scree slope (kairn markers) to the start of Nautilus (15 minutes). Continue up the gully to the small chimney which marks the start of Elisir d'Incastro. Il lato oscuro starts on the left of the chimney at the base of a wide but short crack. Descent
Abseil down the route (two 60m ropes). From the ledge make the final abseil down the Elisir d'Incastro chimney, then follow the track back to the start. Gear
Friends up to 4 BD, 1, 2 and 3. Set of nuts, slings, 2 60m ropes. Maps/Bibliography
Rock Paradise, by Maurizio Oviglia, Edizioni Versante Sud
From Turin head east along the Ss460 towards Rivarolo, Cuorgnè, Pont Canavese, to the start of Valle dell'Orco. Continue to the end of the tunnel, just before Ceresole, then turn off left and park next to the campsite. Car thieves operate slightly further up the valley. Access
Continue along the road until access is barred, where it begins to descend. On the slab on the left there is a kairn. Walk up through the wood then the scree slope (kairn markers) to the start of Nautilus (15 minutes). Continue up the gully to the small chimney which marks the start of Elisir d'Incastro. Il lato oscuro starts on the left of the chimney at the base of a wide but short crack. Descent
Abseil down the route (two 60m ropes). From the ledge make the final abseil down the Elisir d'Incastro chimney, then follow the track back to the start. Gear
Friends up to 4 BD, 1, 2 and 3. Set of nuts, slings, 2 60m ropes. Maps/Bibliography
Rock Paradise, by Maurizio Oviglia, Edizioni Versante Sud
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Beauty
First ascent
Maurizio Oviglia, Eugenio Pinotti & Paolo Seimandi, 6-7/10/2008
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
SW
Length
220m
Difficulty
II/S2+/6c max
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
12/10/2008 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco, new routes on Sergent At the end of September and the start of October Maurizio Oviglia, Sara Oviglia, Paolo Seimandi and Eugenio Pinotti completed two new multi-pitch routes on the Sergent rock face in...