Mittelpfeiler - Heiligkreuzkofel
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Mittelpfeiler
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Reinhold Messner & Günther Messner 6&7/07/1968
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
West
Length
500m
Height
2825m
Difficulty
8 (7 Mariacher variation)
Obligatory difficulty
6 A1
Route
Mittelpfeiler is a pleasant outing up solid rock, especially in the upper section. With in-situ gear throughout the entire route, the Messner was long considered one of the hardest routes in the Dolomites. Heinz Mariacher repeated the route adding an easier variation on the hardest pitch.
Getting there
Take the motorway A22 to Bressanone, then continue along the SS49 through the Val Pusteria to S.Lorenzo. Continue along the SS244 through the Val Badia to Corvara. Alternatively, take the motorway A22 to Chiusa and continue along the SS242 up the Val Gardena to Passo Gardena and down to Corvara. At Corvara follow signs for La Villa - Pedraces. At Pedraces take the chairlift on the right to the refuge and church Santa Croce, from where the path leads off to the base of the routes. Access
From Santa Croce (2045m), beneath Sass dla Crusc, follow path no. 7 that leads beneath the mountain past scree slopes and alpine meadows up to the ferrata. Reach the base of the Pilastro di Mezzo and then turn off left through meadows and over stepped terrain to the start of the route. Descent
From the top of the route follow the crest and path right (south) to reach Furcla dla Crusc 2609m and the cables belonging to the ferrate. Walk down this to meet up with the path that leads to the Santa Croce refuge (1.30 hours). Gear
Normal alpine rack.
Take the motorway A22 to Bressanone, then continue along the SS49 through the Val Pusteria to S.Lorenzo. Continue along the SS244 through the Val Badia to Corvara. Alternatively, take the motorway A22 to Chiusa and continue along the SS242 up the Val Gardena to Passo Gardena and down to Corvara. At Corvara follow signs for La Villa - Pedraces. At Pedraces take the chairlift on the right to the refuge and church Santa Croce, from where the path leads off to the base of the routes. Access
From Santa Croce (2045m), beneath Sass dla Crusc, follow path no. 7 that leads beneath the mountain past scree slopes and alpine meadows up to the ferrata. Reach the base of the Pilastro di Mezzo and then turn off left through meadows and over stepped terrain to the start of the route. Descent
From the top of the route follow the crest and path right (south) to reach Furcla dla Crusc 2609m and the cables belonging to the ferrate. Walk down this to meet up with the path that leads to the Santa Croce refuge (1.30 hours). Gear
Normal alpine rack.
Comments
03/09/2009 Stefano Gavagna
Bella via. Incredibile immedesimarsi nell'apritore.
Usato la relazione di Rabanser che è fatta molto bene (a parte i gradi a mio parere un po' strettini, ma era immaginabile). Raggiunto l'attacco facendo la prima parte del Mayerl, sulla cengia si cammina tranquillamente.
11/09/2006
Bellissima ed impegnativa; pochi chiodi in posto, in particolare sul tiro della "Placca Messner" mancano alcuni chiodi ed uno mi è rimasto in mano sul traverso. Molto continuo l'ultimo tiro. Accesso alla cengia mediante la prima parte della diretta al grande muro.
11/09/2006
Bellissima ed impegnativa; pochi chiodi in posto, in particolare sul tiro della "Placca Messner" mancano alcuni chiodi ed uno mi è rimasto in mano sul traverso. Molto continuo l'ultimo tiro. Accesso alla cengia mediante la prima parte della diretta al grande muro.
06/08/2006 antonio antonio
Capolavoro del mitico messner.Via molto impegnativa e poco chiodata.Variante con traverso strano su una piccola lista per piedi,molto caratteristico.sempre impegnativa in ogni tiro. Per arrivare all'attacco del pilastro saliti dalla gabloner:roccia semplicemente squallida!!!
Beauty
First ascent
Reinhold Messner & Günther Messner 6&7/07/1968
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
West
Length
500m
Height
2825m
Difficulty
8 (7 Mariacher variation)
Obligatory difficulty
6 A1
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
