Planetmountain
1 / 8
Los Angeles: Col Becchei, Dolomites
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Paolo Bellodis, Mario Dibona, 1984
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SW
Length
300m
Difficulty
6a

Route



This route follows the large corner up the middle of the wall to the large roofs at half height. From here it continues leftwards, shares a belay with Thriller and Balbic and continues up slabs and cracks between the two. The first section up the corner is magnificent but beware of seepage after rain. The route was re-equipped in 2021 by Mario Dibona, Filippo Menardi and Pier Smaltini.

Getting there

From Cortina drive towards Dobbiaco along the SS51. After the small village Fiames turn left off the main road (signposted Val di Fanes - Trevenanzes). Park the car at the entrance to the park and continue on foot.

Access

Follow signs for Fanes, over several bridges and along the forest road. After a few bends the path straightens out and continues along the valley floor, past the Taé walls on the right, and then on to the Spalti di Col Becchei. The path forks at this point; go right over a small bridge onto the other side of the valley floor towards the Spalti. A cairn indicates a small path leading off rightwards through the wood steeply up to the rock face. To reach Illusione Ottica and Thriller scramble up the scree, traverse leftwards along an exposed section beneath a band of rock, and then return rightwards. The other routes are reached more easily by walking directly up to the base of the crag. Taé’s routes are reached by crossing the bridge and briefly following the road, to then ascend the gully on the right. Reach the pine trees and then scramble up the ramp rightwards to the base of the wall. Start beneath the corner.

Descent

From the top scramble up the steep grass slope for another 30 meters and follow the trail along the exposed, grassy ledge westwards. Follow the poor tracks downhill for another 400 meters until you reach a twisted fir tree at the edge of the wall (small cairn), with threads and abseil carabiners. Abseil 30 meters straight down to a pine tree with threads and abseil carabiner. Abseil 30 meters straight down to reach the next ledge with a tree. From here follow the track eastwards for 10 meters to reach another pine tree with threads and abseil carabiners. From here with another 3 x 25m abseils lead to the base of the wall.

Gear

With the rebolting carried out in 2021 and in its current state (autumn 2023) the route can be climbed without the use of additional pro, although a set of small cams up to size #2 (orange Totem orange or yellow Camalot) is recommended.





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02/11/2006 checco
Bellissimo il diedro della prima parte e bellissimo l'ambiente, la chiodatura a mio avviso è più che sufficiente, si possono comunque usare con facilità protezioni mobili