Fessura della Disperazione + Camino Bernardi - Sergent
Copia link
Umberto Bado, Mountain Guide
1 / 8
Planetmountain
A legendary crack, one of the symbols of Valle dell’Orco, an absolute valley classic. Not to be missed.
Fessura della Disperazione, the crack of despair is an enormous crack that plunges through the compact slabs of the Sergent. Although never extreme, the climb is sustained and challenging given its width - offwidth - and consequent difficulty in protecting adequately. Take a complete set of Friends up to #6 BD. Having two #5 and two #6 can help a lot on the second and third pitch.
The crack can be climbed in two different ways, either completely outside, hands jammed in the crack and feet on the slab, or completely inside the large crack. The first technique is certainly more exposed and demanding but the climbing is beautiful and fun, and you can help yourself by wedging your right foot into the crack. The second technique... is a rough squeeze through the 'tunnel' but some feel a lot safer climbing it this way.
Drive up the Orco valley along the road #460. After Noasca drive through the long tunnel and at its end turn off left. After 200 meters park in front of Camping la Peschera, below the obvious Sergent face on the hydrographic left.
AccessTake the path that starts from the tablet with the description of the valley walls and walk up through the forest to reach the base of Sergent. Coast the wall briefly to the right up to the base of the obvious large crack and the start of the first pitch. 20 minutes
GearTwo half ropes, a full set of Friends from 0.4 - 6 BD. Two #5 and #6 recommended.
Maps/BibliographyValle dell'Orco 2010 di Maurizio Oviglia, Edizioni Versante Sud
See all photos
Comments
