Mediterraneo - Punta Giradili
Copia link
Maurizio Oviglia
1 / 14
Mattia Vacca
Mediterraneo is an elegant climb that weaves its way between the huge overhangs of the lefthand side of the face. It ascends on a strip of exceptional grey limestone, offering huge exposure next to the giant roof (the vault is more than 100 m off the ground).
The difficulties are always continuous and the belays are not particularly comfortable. The crux overhangs considerably and this is way a rappel from this point is not recommended (even if equipped for abseil); a traverse towards the sheepfold is recommended. The other pitches are mostly vertical slabs.
Over time the route has become a great classic, perhaps the most popular on Punta Giradili due in part to the fact that it is one the shortest and remains in the shade for longer during the hot summer months.
Follow the SS125 to Baunei and turn left shortly before entering the village proper (sign for Ristorante del Golgo). Continue steeply uphill, turn right at the first hairpin bend (signposted Monte Ginnirco) and follow the dirt track to where it joins another road. Turn right, continue down into the valley and up past the second hairpin bend to then turn right into the Cuile Despiggius opening. Park here and proceed on foot over the gate, through the small farm and on down along the obvious path beneath the buttress to the start of the routes. Allow 30 min for the approach.
ItineraryP1: 6b+
P2: 6a+
P3: 6b+
P4: 7a+
P5: 6b
P6: 6a
P7: 6c
P8: two alternatives:
a) exit to the left, past a difficult crux (6c+) to reach the edge of the wall, (15m), this is the original exit
b) exit right on rough, slightly overhanging rock past beautiful climbing to leave the wall (6c). This finish was bolted at a later date. The final pitch of 7b pitch of Oiscura ascends straight up between these two exiots.
The climb is compltely bolted. Take 12 quickdraws and two 50m ropes.
See all photos
Fantastica, un capolavoro. L'ultimo tiro siamo usciti verso destra, molto bella, consigliato.