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Via Napoleone - Punta Valeria

Italy>Lombardy>Bernina Alps>Masino - Bregaglia>Punta Valeria

Giovanni Giarletta

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Via Napoleone: Climbing the slab on pitch 1 of Via Napoleone

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Manuele Panzeri, Pietro Tentori, 2006. Terminated by Manuele Panzeri and Giovanni Giarletta ion 03/08/2017

Giovanni Giarletta

Length

350 m

Difficulty

VII+ (VI+/A0)

Route

Via Napoleone is an alpine climb in Val Torrone (SO), above Val Masino, established ground-up past the most obvious lines of weakenss.

Access

The route climbs the wall to the right of Fiamma del Torrone and is recognizable by two marked grassy ledges on the upper section. Punta Valeria (proposed toponym) is the rocky bow characterized by a set of sharp spires at its summit.

From the Manzi-Pirrotta bivouac traverse the moraine towards the obvious Fiamma del Torrone. Scramble up for a hundred meters towards an obvious white vein at the base of the smooth basal slab, at the end of which are some large flakes (peg with old tat just before a small balcony).

Itinerary

P1 - VI+, 30 mt

P2 - VII+ (VI+/A0), 35 mt

P3 - VI, 45 mt

P4 - VI- 45mt

P5 - tiro di trasferimento con un passo di IV, 55 mt

P6 - VI, 40 mt

P7 - V, 50 mt

P8 - IV, 50 mt

Descent
Five abseils down the route. From belay 8 to belay 6. From belay6 to belay5 and from here to belay 3. From belay 3 to belay 2 and from here to the ground.