Nato due volte Monte Gallo (Nuovo Mondo)

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Nato due volte - Monte Gallo (Nuovo Mondo)

Italy>Sicily>Apennines>Sicilian Apennines>Monte Gallo (Nuovo Mondo)

Eugenio Pinotti

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Nato due volte

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Fabrice Calabrese, Mauro Florit, Eugenio Pinotti, 18-19-20 March 2015

Eugenio Pinotti

Orientation

North

Length

230m

Height

567m

Difficulty

7a+

Obligatory difficulty

6b+ obligatory

Route

Varied and interesting climbing rock up beautifully featured rock.

Getting there
Reach Palermo and then Mondello. Access

From Mondello reach the entrance of the Capo Gallo nature reserve (€ 5.00 toll, negotiable...) and follow this to the end close to the lighthouse (car park). Follow the track to the face, coast this rightwards, pass the arête and enter the Nuovo Mondo amphitheater. Scramble up the slope to below the large rectangular roof located on the lower section of the wall. Ascend the small pedestal to reach the pulpit (cairn); the route starts on a narrow ledge with big spike to the leftt of the pulpit (20 minutes from the car).

Itinerary

P1: 40m, 6a

P2: 30m, 6b/+

P3: 20m, 6a+

P4: 30m, 6b

P5: 30m, 6a+

P6: 45m, 6b+

P7: 35m, 7a/+

Descent
Abseil down the route.The belay stations are all equipped with an absei lring. Gear
Stainless steel bolted climb. Take 2 x 60m ropes, some slings and 12 quickdraws. Insitu 51 bolts + 14 at the belay and 3 threads.