Fuori come Merli Eldorado - Chiusa di Ceraino

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Fuori come Merli - Eldorado - Chiusa di Ceraino

Italy>Veneto>Val Adige>Brentino>Eldorado - Chiusa di Ceraino

Andrea Simonini

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Fuori come Merli

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Tommaso Marchesini, Andrea Simonini, 01/2015. RP: 08/05/2015

Andrea Simonini

Orientation

West. Shade until noon

Length

120m

Difficulty

Obligatory difficulty

Route

Opened ground-up, using skyhooks to place the bolts, Fuori come Merli is 120m high and spectacular. Beautiful beyond belief, the first two pitches that are a work of art of Mother Nature. The central roof tackles a logical line before continuing up the airy arête past tufas and pocketed slabs, not easy to onsight. The distance between the bolts isn’t excessive.

Getting there
The route is located at the surreal Chiusa di Ceraino, on the lefthand bank of River Adige, close to the road that leads from Passo Napoleone (VR) towards Trento (15 minutes from Affi). Access
Park at the bar/restaurant at the Chiusa, the rock face can be seen cleary from here and all routes are marked at the base. 2 minutes on foot. The route starts circa 20m left of "Non è un Paese per Fichi" Itinerary

P1: 6c, 25m

P2: 6c, 25m

P3: 7c, 30m

P4: 7b, 30m

P5: 6b, 15m

Descent
Abseil down the route. Gear
12 quickdraws