Azazar - Tadrarate
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Azazar: Patrik Aufdenblatten on the slabby second pitch © Franz Walter
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer and Patrik Aufdenblatten 04/2013
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
Southwest
Length
400m
Height
2803m
Difficulty
8a
Obligatory difficulty
7b+
Route
In April 2013 Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer and Patrik Aufdenblatten made the first ascent of Azazar (400m, 8a) up the Tadrarate rock face in the Taghia Gorge, Morocco.
Papert described the nine pitch line as "a somewhat alpine outing because of the long runouts on all pitches. But the climbing is very varied and steep overhangs are quickly followed by extremely rough slabs and our route is certainly no walkover: the difficulties never diminish and the climbing is demanding, both physically and psychologically, throughout."
Papert described the nine pitch line as "a somewhat alpine outing because of the long runouts on all pitches. But the climbing is very varied and steep overhangs are quickly followed by extremely rough slabs and our route is certainly no walkover: the difficulties never diminish and the climbing is demanding, both physically and psychologically, throughout."
Getting there
Reach the village of Taghia. Access
From Taghia follow the Berber path Akka ‘n Taghia gorge for 2 hours to reach the base of the route. Azazar starts circa 100m to the right of Antro.po.cene. Itinerary
P1: 8a
P2: 7c
P3: 7b
P4: 8a
P5: 7b
P6: 7b
P7: 6c
P8: 6b+
P9: 6b Descent
Abseil down the route Gear
The route is protected by 80 bolts (including the belays) but long run-outs make this a demanding outing.
Reach the village of Taghia. Access
From Taghia follow the Berber path Akka ‘n Taghia gorge for 2 hours to reach the base of the route. Azazar starts circa 100m to the right of Antro.po.cene. Itinerary
P1: 8a
P2: 7c
P3: 7b
P4: 8a
P5: 7b
P6: 7b
P7: 6c
P8: 6b+
P9: 6b Descent
Abseil down the route Gear
The route is protected by 80 bolts (including the belays) but long run-outs make this a demanding outing.
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Beauty
First ascent
Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer and Patrik Aufdenblatten 04/2013
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
Southwest
Length
400m
Height
2803m
Difficulty
8a
Obligatory difficulty
7b+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
07/05/2013 - Climbing
Azazar, new climb on Tadrarate (Morocco) by Aufdenblatten, Papert and Steurer In April 2013 Ines Papert, Lisi Steurer and Patrik Aufdenblatten made the first ascent of Azazar (400m, 8a) up the Tadrarate rock face in the Taghia Gorge, Morocco.