Spigolo Sam - Tofana di Rozes
Copia link
Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
1 / 1
Spigolo Sam
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Massimo Da Pozzo, Natasha Da Pozzo, Samuele Majoni summer 2011
By
Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Length
500m
Difficulty
6c
Great route established by Massimo Da Pozzo up the second arête on the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes.
With all belays equipped for the abseils and its south facing orientation, Spigolo Sam is certainly an interesting outing on one of the most famous rock faces in the Dolomites.
With all belays equipped for the abseils and its south facing orientation, Spigolo Sam is certainly an interesting outing on one of the most famous rock faces in the Dolomites.
Getting there
From Cortina d'Ampezzo reach Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cortina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from rifugio Dibona. Take the obvious path from the hut which leads to the base of the pillar in circa 30 minutes. The start is located close to a corner on the left-hand side (west) of the imposing
Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes (bolt visibile). Itinerary
P1: 6b
P2: 6b
P3: 4+
P4: 6b
P5: 6b
P6: 6b
P7: 6c
P8: 6a
P9: 6a
P10: 4
P11: 4
P12: 5+
P13: 4 Descent
Descend as for all other routes on this pillar: follow obvious tracks north to reach Rifugio Giussani and then descend back down to Rifugio Dibona (1.15 hours circa). Gear
10 quickdraws, two ropes (usuful for an abseil off the route), a selection of nuts and mid-sized camming devices.
From Cortina d'Ampezzo reach Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cortina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge. Access
Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from rifugio Dibona. Take the obvious path from the hut which leads to the base of the pillar in circa 30 minutes. The start is located close to a corner on the left-hand side (west) of the imposing
Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes (bolt visibile). Itinerary
P1: 6b
P2: 6b
P3: 4+
P4: 6b
P5: 6b
P6: 6b
P7: 6c
P8: 6a
P9: 6a
P10: 4
P11: 4
P12: 5+
P13: 4 Descent
Descend as for all other routes on this pillar: follow obvious tracks north to reach Rifugio Giussani and then descend back down to Rifugio Dibona (1.15 hours circa). Gear
10 quickdraws, two ropes (usuful for an abseil off the route), a selection of nuts and mid-sized camming devices.
Comments
17/09/2013 Armin Craffonara
Bella via continua fino a lunghezza 9..il tiro più difficile ma forse anche il più bello nr. 1, come difficoltá lunghezza prima del tetto forse 5c/6a e non 6b...lunghezza dopo il tetto forse 6b e non 6a..ma non sono cose importanti....importante è che mox ne abbia fatta un'altra...sono sempre ancora troppo poche.....consigliato rientro in doppia dopo lunghezza 9. ciao
08/09/2013 luca s
Bellissima via, specialmente il primo tiro. Utile una serie di friend. Vista la luuunghezza dello spittaggio!
Bravi gli apritori!
18/06/2012 maivory
Bella via ma su roccia ancora da ripulire in alcuni tratti. Difficoltà forse un po' sovragadate su L5 e L6 ma compensate dalla chiodatura lunga. L8 un bel 6a "corroborante" (mezzo grado in più non ci stava male). Tiro di 6c è 1 passaggio boulder su tettino (peraltro azzerabile volendo). Obbl 6b - occhio a qualche partenza dalla sosta
10 rinvii sono troppi, bastano 7 in media 4/5 fix a tiro
Complimenti all'infaticabile MOX!!!
Beauty
First ascent
Massimo Da Pozzo, Natasha Da Pozzo, Samuele Majoni summer 2011
By
Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Length
500m
Difficulty
6c
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
17/05/2012 - Climbing
Spigolo Sam, new climb on Tofana di Rozes by Massimo Da Pozzo On the Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes in the Dolomites Massimo Da Pozzo, Natasha Alexander and Samuele Majoni have made the first ascent of Spigolo Sam (6c, 500m circa).