La steLLa e la luna - Rocca Ramosa

Giorgio Iurato
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La steLLa e la luna: Sonya Giurdanella climbing La steLLa e la luna. Photo Giorgio Iurato
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Giorgio Iurato 23-24/04/2011, ground-up, solo, one bivy. First free ascent 25/06/2011, Giorgio Iurato & Giurdanella Sonya.
By
Giorgio Iurato
Length
110m
Height
1200m
Difficulty
6b+
Obligatory difficulty
6a+

Route



Pleasant route up excellent quality slabs and cracks, with some technical sections in wild surroundings.
Getting there
From Palermo continue to Villabate, then Misilmeri and Marineo and reach Ficuzza. Access
From Ficuzza continue by car towards Alpe Cucco. Turn off right shortly afterwards following the sign for Alpe Ramosa and continue up the hairpin bends. park the car when these end, at the wooden signpost for Acqua Ammucciata and Grotta del Romito. Continue on foot along the dirt track towards the obvious North Face of Pizzo Campana. Close to the rock face the road curves off leftwards; take the path which leads off rightwards and follow the red markers. Climb through the hole in the metal fence and ascend leftwards to the summit. When you reach the tower descend right into the forest for circa 200m, then head right towards the grey rock face. Coast this and reach two large boulders. The route starts to the left of these, peg and sling visible at the start. 45 minutes from the car. Itinerary
P1: 6b, 25m, 3 bolts
P2: 6b, 20m, 4 bolts
P3: 6a, 20m, 1 bolts
P4: 5b, 20m, 1 bolts
P5: 4a, 25m. Gear
1 x 70m rope, 10 quickdraws, a set of small and medium wires, helmet.




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02/08/2011 Sonya Giurdanella
Una delle piĆ¹ belle vie mai fatte fino ad ora, la consiglio vivamente. Molto tecnica e divertente ma mai banale, anzi. Per i veri amanti della placca e dei "problemi" da risolvere! :)