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Io, Giorgio e Ramosa

First ascent: David Gallo & Giorgio Iurato il 3/04 e 13/11/2010 (ground-up). First free ascent: David Gallo & Giorgio Iurato 14/11/2010
By: David Gallo & Giorgio Iurato
Area: Apennines, Group: Sicilian Apennines, Peak: Rocca Ramusa, Height: 1270m, Country: Italy, Region: Sicily

Pleasant and interesting route up slabs, cracks and corners, with some technical sections up good quality limestone. The route takes a line up the West Face of Rocca Ramusa, the isolated tower close to the forest Bosco della Ficuzza and Rocca Busambra, at 1613m the highest peak in western Sicily.
The climbing is technical up smooth limestone and although there are some bolts, the pitches also need protecting with natural pro. The panorama is enchanting.


From Palermo continue to Villabate, then Misilmeri and Marineo and reach Ficuzza.


From Ficuzza continue by car towards Alpe Cucco. Turn off right shortly afterwards following the sign for Alpe Ramosa and continue up the hairpin bends. park the car when these end, at the wooden signpost for Acqua Ammucciata and Grotta del Romito. Continue on foot along the dirt track towards the obvious North Face of Pizzo Campana. Close to the rock face the road curves off leftwards; take the path which leads off rightwards and follow the red markers. Climb through the hole in the metal fence and descend rightwards, heading for the white rock face. Coast this to reach a gully. The route starts to the right of the diagonal corner/crack, first bolt visible from below. 25 minutes from the car.


P1: 6a+, 35m, 3 bolts
P2: 6c, 35m, 4 bolts
P3: 7b, 40m, 7 bolts
P4: 7a/+, 30m, 4 bolts
P5: 5a, 35m, 1 bolts
P6: 6b, 30m, 5 bolts
P7: 6c+, 35m, 4 bolts


From the final bolt scramble up the ridge leftwards to reach the gully hidden in the trees. Ascend this and continue left to reach another gully which, in turn, leads to a terra. From here continue left along ledges to reach some trees, then follow the obvious path which joins the path used to reach base of the route. 50 minutes circa. An abseil descent after pitch 3 is difficult due to the traverse on pitch 4.


Two 50m ropes (or one 80m rope, 13 quickdraws, a set of small and medium wires, helmet. The route is equipped with stainless steel bolts and abseil rings at the belays.

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