Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowRock arrowRoutes arrowJeef


First ascent: Arnaud & Francois Petit, 1992, from above
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Corsica, Group: Bavella, Peak: Punta di U Corbu, Country: France, Region: Corsica

Significantly harder than  Dos de l’éléphant, Jeef is a masterpiece in terms of beauty and the demanding nature of its climbing - photos of the route have been published in magazines worldwide. 6b is obligatory and potential repeaters should master this grade with ease. A set of camming devices is highly recommended to integrate the run-outs. The third pitch is known to being morphological. The final section joins up with the Elefante and reaches the summit of Punta U Corbu by climbing 4 pitches first ascended by the Petit brothers in 1993. From the summit abseil down Delicatessen via a series of impressive and complicated abseils.


From Solenzara take the road towards. After Bocca di Larone (608 m), the view opens onto the  beautiful granite towers. Continue to the bridge at  Polischellu and park the car here.


Do not follow the path on the right (hydrographic left) which leads to Teghie Lisce, but follow a track along the other bank. Keep as close as possible to the river and, when you reach a reddish rock face (circa 30 minutes from the bridge) ascend up a dry river bed to the base of an obvious rounded pillar (1.15 hours)


From the top of Delicatessen (south face). The descent is demanding; diagonal and overhanging,  clip the quickdraws during you abseil to remain close to the rock (50m ropes, prussik indispensable).


12 quickdraws, friends 0,5,2 e 3 indispensable, double 50m x 9mm ropes, a selection of nuts. The route is equipped with 10mm bolts.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Jeef"

21-04-2008, Alex Mayer
Via bellisima, dall atacco fino in cima. Sopratutto il tetto nella parte alta è una meraviglia.
24-05-2006, enrico pastori
Via meravigliosa e impegnativa da sola vale il viaggio in Corsica. La chiodatura è abbastanza lunga ma non pericolosa friends non necessari. Affrontarla solo se padroni del grado obbligatorio su granito (placche appoggiate), i due tiri più duri sono caratterizzati da passi boulder facilmente azzerabili. Un commento dettagliato della via e dell'accesso è sul libro d'oro del rifugio di Col Di Bavella consigliabile anche per pernottare.
Details / route

stella stella stella stella stella


7a+ max


6b expo






Read main article

VOTES / itinerary
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary


Add your email and password:



SEARCH routes




More itineraries
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer