Rock, top news
On Gross Wellhorn in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland the alpinists Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella and Yannick Glatthard have completed Ying Yang, a 450m multipitch climb graded 8b.
Earlier today Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent of Change, the first 9b+ sport climb in the world established by Adam Ondra in 2012 at Flatanger in Norway.
Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
Barbara Vigl reports about the first ascent of Nebelgeist, established this summer with Simon Messner on Söllerköpfe on Schüsselkar in Austria's Wetterstein mountain chain.
On Gross Wellhorn in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland the alpinists Silvan Schüpbach, Matteo Della Bordella and Yannick Glatthard have completed Ying Yang, a 450m multipitch climb graded 8b.
Earlier today Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent of Change, the first 9b+ sport climb in the world established by Adam Ondra in 2012 at Flatanger in Norway.
Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
Barbara Vigl reports about the first ascent of Nebelgeist, established this summer with Simon Messner on Söllerköpfe on Schüsselkar in Austria's Wetterstein mountain chain.
The video of Belgian climber Simon Lorenzi on Quoi de neuf, an 8B + boulder problem at Orsay in France.
In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of the hardest multi-pitch climbs in the Dolomites.
The video of Adam Ondra making the first repeat, thanks to a cunning kneebar, of Beginning, the route freed in May 2020 by Stefano Ghisolfi at Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy.
The film Gorropu, a portrait of Polish rock climber Aleksandra Taistra repeating the famous multi-pitch Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia, will be streamed on Monday 21 September 2020 from 21:00 to 24:00 on the website ferrino.it.
A video tribute to John Gill, considered by many the father of modern bouldering, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.
The three mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Claudio Migliorini and Nicola Tondini have freed each individual pitch of Space Vertigo, the multi-pitch rock climb they completed last year on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
The Italian Matterhorn Guides inform that due to rockfall the Échelle Jordan ladder is currently inaccessible. The guides have equipped a new line to the left of the ladder in order to reach the summit.
Italian climber Giacomo Meliffi has made a free solo ascent of Legoland, the famous crack climb in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Yesterday at Massone in Arco German rock climber Alex Megos managed to flash Underground, Italy’s historic 9a established by Manfred Stuffer in 1998.
Switzerland’s Nils Favre and France’s Symon Welfringer have repeated Paciencia, the 900m 8a first ascended by Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck in 2003 up the North Face of the Eiger.
The trailer of ‘Valhalla, cielo de roca' featuring Edu Marin making the first ascent of his huge multi-pitch sports climb up through the Grand Arch at Getu in China
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Kico Cerdá have made the first free ascent of Rayu (8c, 600m) on the south face of the Peña Santa de Castilla in the Picos de Europa massif in Spain.
Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
Paolo Marazzi and Giacomo Regallo made the first free ascent of Diretta dei Cecoslovacchi, the Czech Direct, on Punta Ferrario (3258m) in Val Torrone - Val Masino, Italy.
Britain’s Madeleine Cope and Emma Twyford have both repeated an E9 trad route by climbing, respectively, The Final Round at Illam Rock in England and Chupacabra at Pembroke in Wales.
Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has made the first free ascent of Ellipsis, a five-pitch climb with difficulties up to 8b+ on Mt. Bila Pec at Sella Nevea in the Julian Alps, Italy.
