|The Tre Cime di Lavaredo are three enormous free-standing limestone towers, unique not only to the Dolomites but to the world.
Their yellow tinted north faces play host to numerous alpine routes, many of which, thanks to their difficulty and natural beauty, have become true classics.
Almost all were originally climbed using traditional techniques and a vast amount of gear, and it was only fairly recently that some of these routes were freed completely.
Hasse Brandler, taking the direct line up the North Face of Cima Grande (3000 m), is one such route.
It is best climbed during the summer months, for early morning starts can be extremely cold.
Information concerning the state of the route can be gained from the Rifugio Lavaredo.
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The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the highway northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from which a toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces.
|Rock and gear
This stratified limestone is friable and loose in places. Although the most important routes have been cleaned, be careful since it can be a bit unnerving at first.
The rock on Hasse Brandler is solid throughout. The first section is crimpy, the second section extremely pumpy, in particular the overhanging corner at half height.
The route is literally festooned with pegs, although not all are entirely trustworthy.
All belays are well equipped with bolts except for those on the finishing pitches.
Take a full set of wires, some medium-size friends, some slings and plenty of quickdraws. Although two ropes are recommended, a 60 m rope is sufficient.
|1 - Via Hasse Brandler
2 - Via Comici Dimai
7a+ (UIAA: V+/A2 obligatory)
All belays are well equipped, most have bolts
Numerous pegs, although not all are trustworthy
Along the normal route on the SE Face. Some abseils on insitu gear and downclimbing (UIAA: II/III).
Regardless of the style of ascent the route, due to its 18 pitches, is very tiring and therfore requires a certain degree of fitness.