Giovanni Paolo II - Piz Ciavazes
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Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
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Giovanni Paolo II: The line of ascent of Giovanni Paolo II. Photo Alberto De Giuli
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Bepi de Francesch & Fiorenzo Vanzetta, 1978
By
Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Length
300m
Difficulty
6c
Obligatory difficulty
6b / S2
Route
Great route up good rock, established by B. De Franceschi and F. Vanzetta in 1978 (pegs and pressure bolts). It was rebolted recently in a combined effort first by R. Bernard and G. Bonanno, then by Luigi Trippa & Co. (middle pitches) and finished off by Bernard with E. and P. Bernard and C. Peveri.
Getting there
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
For the car park walk towards Spigolo Abram for 10 minutes. This leads to a section with single pitches. The route starts up the obvious ramp/corner system close to the start of a short via ferrata. Descent
Abseil (70m rope sufficient abseiling from P6) or walk down via the ledge Cengia dei Camosci. Gear
13 quickdraws, one 70m rope
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
For the car park walk towards Spigolo Abram for 10 minutes. This leads to a section with single pitches. The route starts up the obvious ramp/corner system close to the start of a short via ferrata. Descent
Abseil (70m rope sufficient abseiling from P6) or walk down via the ledge Cengia dei Camosci. Gear
13 quickdraws, one 70m rope
Comments
18/08/2010 maivory
Via buona per giornate incerte. Una lunghezza molto bella, il traverso del quinto tiro (per me assomiglia più ad un 6b che a 6c).
Roccia mediocre sul sesto tiro. Carina il resto anche se discontinua.
Spittatura ravvicinata.
Consiglio di seguire la lunghezza di Non c'è due senza te al sesto tiro.
Beauty
First ascent
Bepi de Francesch & Fiorenzo Vanzetta, 1978
By
Alberto De Giuli, Mountain Guide
Orientation
South
Length
300m
Difficulty
6c
Obligatory difficulty
6b / S2
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Show more in Sella
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30/06/2010 - Climbing
Rock climbing on Piz Ciavazes and the Sella, Dolomites Five interesting rock climbs on Piz Ciavaces and the First Sella Tower, Dolomites, introduced by Mountain Guide Alberto De Giuli.