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Mai molar

First ascent: Marco Sterni, Mauro Florit, estate 2008
By: Marco Sterni
Area: Dolomites, Group: Tofane, Peak: Tofana di Rozes, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Route first ascended from the ground up using 10mm stainless steel bolts. Although not top end, the difficulties are continuous and the route is strenuous due to its length. Medium and small camming devices recommend, as well as long quickdraws to reduce the rope drag on the longer pitches. Bolts are more run-out compared to the nearby "Quel calcare nell'anima" and these should be backed up with trad gear.


From Cortina take the road SS48 that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 1km before the pass, next to the bar/restaurant Ra Nona (1985m).


Take path no. 412 that leads away from the bar towards Forcella Col dei Bos. After10 minutes the path transforms into a dirt track; continue up to the Col (2330m), and from here do not follow signs right for the "Ferrata del Castelletto", but instead proceed along the path that leads to Val Travenanzes until the sign for "Ferrata Lipella". Turn off right, reach the "mysterious boulder" (so-called as it is neatly divided in half) and continue on for a further 5 minutes to reach the north-west face of the Castelletto. Continue down towards the West Face of Tofana di Rozes, following the obvious trentch. Traverse beneath the wall for a few hundred meters to reach the base of the pillar (1.30 hrs from the car). The start of "Mai molar!" is located circa 20m to the right of "Quel calcare nell'anima", on the wall to the left of the obvious corner. The route has been equipped with dark grey stainless steel Fixe bolts.


Descend down the Ferrata Lipella. Alternatively, abseil down the line of ascent (55m ropes).


10 long quickdraws, a set of medium and small camming devices, two 55m ropes.

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COMMENTS for the route "Mai molar"

30-08-2009, Marco
Itinerario interessante, roccia quasi sempre buona ma ancora con detriti (servono altre ripetizioni). Chiodatura da integrare per evitare potenziali voli lunghi e pericolosi. Valutazioni più corrette rispetto a quelle delle vie sul Castelletto.
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