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Zeitsprung

First ascent: Hannes Pfeifhofer, Diddi Niederbrunner 2019
By: Hannes Pfeifhofer
Area: Dolomites, Group: Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Peak: Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Country: Italy

Zeitsprung is a great, interesting climb up the East Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo. It starts circa 20 meters above the normal route and follows a logical line up slabs and cracks past good quality rock. The route breaches moderate difficulties of grade V+ UIAA. After the ninth pitch it is possible to continue straight up and join the Normal route - useful in case of bad weather - or traverse rightwards along the ledge and then continue upwards for another 5 pitches to reach the ledge at mid-height.

GETTING THERE

The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo.
These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.

GEAR

Take a full alpine rack including a complete series of friends. All the belays are bolted, while normal pegs were left insitu on the pitches.

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DIFFICULTY

V+

FACE

East

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