Via Da Pozzo - Bachmann - Marcoira NE Summit
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Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
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Via Da Pozzo - Bachmann
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Walter Bachmann, Paolo Da Pozzo 2002
By
Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Length
350m
Height
2422m
Difficulty
IV+
Route
In 2002 Paolo Da Pozzo and Walter Bachmann established an interesting route up the east face of the North-East summit of Cima Marcoira (or Malquoira, 2422m), a lone offshoot of Mt. Sorapis.
Although the route is protected by bolts, it isn’t a sport climb: the pro is runout at times and I recommend you take a set of small / medium friends.
It can be split into two sections, a first somewhat easier section with discontinuous difficulties, and a second decidedly more challenging section with sustained climbing.
The rock quality is good, but nevertheless you need to pay attention and future ascentionsts will help clean the route further. The Da Pozzo - Bachmann climbs to the right of a route first ascended by S. Torso, with which it shares the last pitch.
The setting is both magnificent and lonely with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, in particular from the summit: from up there you can admire Cristallo, Cadini Lake Misurina, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Marmarole, Popena and Sorapìs. And the descent, first down alpine meadows and then across scree slopes before plunging through the forest, adds a further touch of magic to this Dolomite outing.
Getting there
From Cortina d’Ampezzo reach Passo Tre Croci, by driving up the SS48. Access
Park near the pass and walk along path n. 215, the highly popular path that leads to Rifugio Vandelli and Lake Sorapis.
Continue along the path for about 20 minutes until you reach the dry riverbed, close to a sharp bend in the path.
At this point leave the path and begin to ascend the riverbed to reach an obvious grassy ledge with pine trees, marked clearly in the photo. A typical bent larch tree is a useful reference point to find the start of the route. Itinerary
P1: 35m – IV+
P2: 50m – V-IV+
P3: 55m – V
P4: 50m – V
P5: 55m – V+
P6: 30m – VI
P7: 30m – VI
P8: 45m – VI-VI+ Descent
Walk SSW along meadows past the NE and SW summits of Marcoira, passing above Ciadin del Loudo, to reach the col Forcella Marcoira. From here take paths no. 216 and then 213 to return to Passo Tre Croci. Notes
At the end of the 7th pitch it's worth belaying a few metres before the original, two-bolt belay, at a bolt and good peg. This is more comfortable and enables better rope-work.
From Cortina d’Ampezzo reach Passo Tre Croci, by driving up the SS48. Access
Park near the pass and walk along path n. 215, the highly popular path that leads to Rifugio Vandelli and Lake Sorapis.
Continue along the path for about 20 minutes until you reach the dry riverbed, close to a sharp bend in the path.
At this point leave the path and begin to ascend the riverbed to reach an obvious grassy ledge with pine trees, marked clearly in the photo. A typical bent larch tree is a useful reference point to find the start of the route. Itinerary
P1: 35m – IV+
P2: 50m – V-IV+
P3: 55m – V
P4: 50m – V
P5: 55m – V+
P6: 30m – VI
P7: 30m – VI
P8: 45m – VI-VI+ Descent
Walk SSW along meadows past the NE and SW summits of Marcoira, passing above Ciadin del Loudo, to reach the col Forcella Marcoira. From here take paths no. 216 and then 213 to return to Passo Tre Croci. Notes
At the end of the 7th pitch it's worth belaying a few metres before the original, two-bolt belay, at a bolt and good peg. This is more comfortable and enables better rope-work.
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Beauty
First ascent
Walter Bachmann, Paolo Da Pozzo 2002
By
Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Length
350m
Height
2422m
Difficulty
IV+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
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