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Gratta e Vinci

By: Simon Kehrer
Area: Dolomites, Group: Fanis, Peak: Sas dai Tamersc, Height: 1900m, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

The beautiful "Sas dai Tamersc" has been observed and attempted by numerous alpinists and prior to our climb, only two fairly unknown routes made their way up the SW Face. To the right of the arete, up the crack and chimney, is the Classica, an old route established by Erich Kastlunger during the 1950's, while the crack immediately to the right of our new line was first climbed by my father Stefan Kehrer and Paolo Vollmann during the '80's, circa 7-!

Gratta e vinci was established by myself and Christoph while searching for the best rock quality and although completely protected with bolts and the occasional peg, it is nevertheless a beautiful alpine outing. The climbing is similar to that found on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo: very technical and at times the rock still needs cleaning.

Thanks to the marvellous surrounding and the easy access, Gratta e Vinci could soon become a highly popular Dolomite classic.


From Brunico drive to San Lorenzo, then continue to San Vigilio di Marebbe. From here drive on towards Pederü, after circa 9 km park to the right of a large meadow where the entire Sas dai Tamersc springs into view.


From the car park cross the meadow and head right past a tower and scramble up the narrow gully to reach the obvious starting slab. Circa 15 minute approach.


At the last ledge with trees traverse 25m west to reach the first abseil. These are exposed, back them up with prussik loops.
Abseils: 1) 40m 2) 35m 3) 55m 4) 55m 5) 30m 6) 60m and then desend right (west) down ramps. From here reach the car in 15 minutes.


13 quickdraws, slings, kevlar threads.

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COMMENTS for the route "Gratta e Vinci"

06-06-2012, Enrico Geremia
Via praticamente di stampo sportivo con spittatura non eccessivamente lontana anche sui gradi più semplici. La roccia è quasi sempre molto buona anche se a tratti è ancora da ripulire, ma mai pericolosa. L'arrampicata è spesso molto tecnica (soprattutto il primo tiro, probabilmente il più ostico!!), tendenzialmente con tiri di continuità anche se alcuni tiri presentano dei passaggi molto intensi. Sostanzialmente una bellissima via di puro divertimento...da ripetere!
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