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By: Marco Bagnasco
Country: Italy, Region: Liguria, Town: Varazze (Savona)

Fourteen years have passed since I discovered the first boulders at Varazze and what's incredible is that we continue to discover new areas, new challenging boulders that trash our skin in this seemingly never-ending game. Last year a new guidebook was published to the are with over 1100 problems and numerous new lines.

It was back in 1999 when, together with my dog Carlotta, I discovered La Cava, the first sector at Varazze. It occurred to me that I could get in touch with an old friend of mine, Christian Core, who in the meantime had become a strong and famous climber. I thought I'd show him my problems, thinking that for him they would be nothing special, seeing that he'd climbed and travelled extensively, sending beautiful problems worldwide. Much to my surprise though, he was astonished and it seemed extraordinary something so beautiful could be right at our doorsteps.

From that day on we formed a perfect team. I discovered new areas, new boulder, while Christian and Stella Marchisio helped me clean them and - and this is the most beautiful part of all - free them.

Day after day, year after year, we continued to be amazed by how many problems we unearthed and climbed at Varazze. Rampage, Gioia, Nem, La Mongolfiera are just a handful of those that particularly impressed us for their purity and beauty...

Even now, after fourteen years, I still find new boulders lost in woods and am amazed at how nature has created such beautiful rocks that seem to have been drawn by the hand of an artist.

Climbers from all over the world have visited Varazze, thanks also to the numerous videos of Christian Core on the internet. Meeting them has always been really interesting and enriching. The bouldering world is like a big tribe, everyone is joined by a common thread, and it's great to feel this harmony.


Take the motorway (A10) Genoa - Ventimiglia.
Coming from Ventimiglia exit at Celle Ligure, continue downhill and at the bottom (facing the sea), turn left towards Varazze.
Coming from Genoa exit at Varazze , turn right and in two minutes reach the town center.
Once in Varazze, continue along the promenade to the large fork for Alpicella, (opposite the parking lot in front of the beach). Drive past the town hall, continue to roundabout , go straight and follow signs for Alpicella, down a narrow one-way road next to the river. At the bottom turn right for "Eremo del deserto - Faie" and ascend the valley, following the river, pats a small petrol station and begin the ascent.
For Eden, Hollywood, Lilliput e Up-there: 200 metres after the petrol station turn right for "Faie", then follow the access for each individual sector.
For Potala, Harem, La Cava and Futurama: continue up the same road up to the village "Il Pero", to the obvious fork for "Alpicella" and "Scavi archeologici", then follow the access for each individual sector.
For further information, please visit www.infoboulder.com section Varazze.


In 2013 I rented a house and turned it into a B & B, close to the main sector Potala. I'd planned it for quite a while and the idea was to have a place for climbers to stay, where they can get all the up-to-date information they need about climbing at Varazze. And for me pay my portion of the rent and continue doing what I love most...


BluBloc Bouldering in Varazze and Trioria
by Christian Core, Stella Marchisio, Marco Bagnasco

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