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Petzl Tibloc

Tibloc uses

- Ascender for fixed ropes:
If weight and bulk are important factors (as in an Alpine or Himalayan environment), the Tibloc can work as a substitute for a traditional ascender (a traditional ascender, although more efficient, is also far heavier).

The Tibloc can be used in emergency situations when climbing and is more practical than a Marchand or Prussik knot (see drawing No. 1).

- Simple pulley system and "quick pulley system" :
If you are using a self-arresting belay plate and your second needs help for some reason, you can set up a simple pulley system using the Tibloc. Position the Tibloc and carabiner on the weighted rope that leads to the second (see drawing No. 2) and then clip the rope that leads down from the self-arresting belay plate into the Tibloc's carabiner. Next pull upwards to help the second.
Set up a double or triple hauling system to reduce the force needed to pull up the second.

If the second is just a few meters away then it is possible to rig a "quick pulley system". This is done by lowering a loop (from the clove hitch used to tie off) with the Tibloc and carabiner. Make sure that the Tibloc's carabiner is clipped into the rope (see drawing No. 3) for added security.
The second must clip the carabiner into the harness' belay loop and then pull on the rope that leads up to the clove hitch. while the belayer simultaneously pulls in the slack The Tibloc automatically locks the second at the height reached. This manoeuvre is extremely useful when rescuing a partner from a crevasse.

- Climbing in tandem:
The Tibloc has proven itself to be an extremely useful device when climbing in tandem since it is faster and safer than traditional techniques. The example of two people climbing in tandem on easy ground , as can be found on a 50-60 degree snow slope, serves to highlight this.
The leader climbs to the end of the first pitch and, instead of rigging a belay to bring up the second, places a bombproof piece of protection The leader places the Tibloc onto this piece of protection (making sure that the Tibloc's carabiner is clipped into the rope as in drawing No. 3).
The second now starts climbing and the two climb simultaneously, making sure that the rope is kept taught. The rope slides upwards in the Tibloc but locks should the second fall, thereby stopping the leader from being pulled off.
Should the leader fall, then the rope slides freely through the Tibloc and the fall is stopped by the weight of the second.

Using this technique one can climb much faster than when belaying at the end of each individual pitch.
With more than one Tibloc it is possible to climb long stretches without having to set up a belay, bring up a second and collect all the gear.
It is clear that, as with all manoeuvres, a great deal of experience is necessary in order to climb safely.

Useful advice:
So as to not inadvertently drop the Tibloc clip it to the carabiner with a 3mm cord (12cm) threaded into the specially designed hole.

When climbing in tandem position the Tibloc on the rope before setting off, check that it is positioned the right way up, and clip it to the harness with a quickdraw. The Tibloc is now ready for use and easy to place if the terrain is difficult.

The Tibloc
Petzl Tibloc
Petzl Tibloc
The Tibloc positioned correctly to ascend a fixed rope.
The simple pulley system rigged with a self-arresting belay plate connected to the belay and a Tibloc
The red arrow indicates the rope that the belayer needs to pull, while the black arrow shows the weighted rope that leads to the second.
Petzl Tibloc
The positioning the Tibloc with the carabiner clipped into the rope.
The red arrow shows the direction in which the rope slides freely towards the leader. The rope cannot slide in the opposite direction.
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