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Piantobaldo - Presolana

First ascent: Yuri Parimbelli G.A., Tito Arosio, Ennio Spiranelli CAAI, 11/03/2011 in 11 hours
By: Ennio Spiranelli
Area: Central Alps, Group: Presolana, Peak: Presolana, Height: 2521m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

"Piantobaldo" was the name Bruno "Camos” Tassi  gave to Roby Piantoni. After the first two pitches shared with Orobic Ice the route continues for a total of 11 pitches and 600m to climb the NW Face of Presolana Occidentale. This is a very beautiful and demanding alpine outing.


From Bergamo reach Colere via Val Seriana and the Passo della Presolana. From Colere reach Rifugio Albani either by chairlift or on foot.


As for Orobic Ice since the first two pitches are the shared. From Rifugio Albaniascend to the Scagnello pass and then descend, keeping close to the face to reach the start of the route in circa 1 hour.


1: 70° powder, sling at belay
2: 80° AI 3+, abseil station on the pitch
3: Traverse 40m, peg belay
4: Traverse 40m,thread belay
5: M4/5 WI3, thread belay
6: M6 WI4/5, peg and nut belay
7: M7 WI4 R; climb the drip on the left: M7 WI3 peg and nut belay
8: A1 M6 WI4, 2 in-situ pegs on the pitch
9: 60°
10: 50°
11: 50°
12: 80°
13: 70°
14: Cornice

Nb. up to pitch 7 it is possible to abseil back down the route as all the abseil belays are in-situ.


Descend along the Presolana Occidentale Normal route down the South Face to reach Passo della Presolana in 2-3 hours.


Full mixed rack. A set of camming devices including small ones, nuts, 10 pegs, 3 medium/short ice screws.

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