Mario Sertori
Beauty
First ascent
M. Galli & M. Vannuccini 1994
By
Mario Sertori
Orientation
SE
Height
1850m
Difficulty
II/4

Route



Very beautiful and highly rewarding icefall. Beware of the thickness of the ice. Water almost always runs within the fall. It requires a long period of intense cold to form completely.
Getting there
From Milan drive to Lecco and then Colico along the SS 36, then continue along the SS 38 to Bormio. From here take the SS 301 towards Livigno and the Foscagno Pass 2291 m.The Forcola pass which connects Valle di Livigno with Valle di Poschiavo is open from May to November only. Access
From Livigno drive to the border at Ponte del Gallo; park after the third tunnel, close to a gravel quarry. The icefall is clearly visible above the road in a rocky gully. Climb up the steep slope to quickly reach the start of the climb (30 mins). Itinerary
The icefall can be climbed in one long single pitch (60 m), by first climbing left, then in the center where the ice is more compact (extremely interesting variation, II/4+) Descent
Descend by traversing right on foot. Notes
Map route 3 Maps/Bibliography
Guidabook: Cascate. Alpi Centrali, Lombardia e Svizzera by Mario Sertori.
Map: Switzerland 1:25000 f.1258 La Stretta and f.1238 Piz Quattervals; Kompass 1:50.000 sheet n. 96 Bormio Livigno




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