ICE, top news
Mountaineering in Italy’s Bergamasque Alps: on Pizzo Porola (2981m) Marco Birolini and Ennio Spiranelli have made the first ascent of '80 Primavere ', a mixed climb dedicated to Mario Bergamelli, Honorary President of the Nembrese Alpinist Group.
Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San Martino group, with Alessandro Beber, Marco Pellegrini and Marco Zanni.
In January 2019 Aaron Durogati, Italian paragliding champion and exceptional mountaineer, flew with his paraglider off some of the most beautiful peaks in the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs in Patagonia.
At Ollomont, a splendid valley that hides some of the most mysterious icefalls in Itay’s Aosta Valley, Ezio Marlier has established two mixed climbs: Albice with Alberto Pierotti and Rikiteppa with Paolo Celesia. Marlier reports
Mountaineering in Italy’s Bergamasque Alps: on Pizzo Porola (2981m) Marco Birolini and Ennio Spiranelli have made the first ascent of '80 Primavere ', a mixed climb dedicated to Mario Bergamelli, Honorary President of the Nembrese Alpinist Group.
Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San Martino group, with Alessandro Beber, Marco Pellegrini and Marco Zanni.
In January 2019 Aaron Durogati, Italian paragliding champion and exceptional mountaineer, flew with his paraglider off some of the most beautiful peaks in the Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre massifs in Patagonia.
At Ollomont, a splendid valley that hides some of the most mysterious icefalls in Itay’s Aosta Valley, Ezio Marlier has established two mixed climbs: Albice with Alberto Pierotti and Rikiteppa with Paolo Celesia. Marlier reports
Today at Champagny-en-Vanoise in France the fifth and penultimate stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup.
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: Simone Banal reports about the first ascent of Tigersoft, a new winter climb up the north face of Cima Brenta established with Fabrizio Dellai and Marco Zanni.
Winter mountaineering in the Dolomites: on the NW Face of the Innerkofler Tower, Langkofel / Sassolungo, Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of the mixed climb of Caddymania. Zaccaria reports.
The fourth stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup took place in Corvara - Rabenstein, Italy, last weekend. Russians Maria Tolokonina and Nikolai Kuzovlev won the Lead event, Anton Nemov and Ekaterina Feoktistova the Speed.
On 26 January 2019 Italian mountaineers Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Kalipe, a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia in the Dolomites.
The fourth stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2019 takes place in Corvara / Rabenstein in Val Passiria, Italy this weekend.
Enrico Geremia reports about the first ascent of Pelmoon up the North Face of Mt. Pelmo in the Dolomites, established over two days with his brother Daniele Geremia and Fabrizio della Rossa.
Symon Welfringer and Xavier Cailhol have completed what is likely to be the first free winter ascent of Dièdre Rouge up the NE Face of Corno Stella (Maritime Alps).
Tragedy in Patagonia: last week a Czech mountaineer died on Fitz Roy and two Brazilian mountaineers have gone missing. A 19-man rescue attempt was launched including Italian mountaineers Claudio Migliorini, Luca Schiera, Edoardo Albrighi, Jacopo Zezza, Giampaolo Calzà, Paolo Marazzi, Dimitri Anghileri, two Spanish climbers, two Argentinians and Denis Urubko. Migliorini reports about the rescue attempt the set off at 10pm on 21 January 2019 and was coordinated by Carolina Codò.
In Patagonia the two Ragni di Lecco alpinists Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera have made the first ascent of Cerro Mangiafuoco. The new route is called L'appel du vide (6c M4 400m).
The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2019 takes place in Saas Fee, Switzerland today. The Speed finals take place the evening, tomorrow hosts the Lead semifinals and Finals. All stages transmitted in live streaming.
Austrian alpinists Thomas Bubendorfer and Max Sparber have made the first ascent of No Country for Old Men, a challenging mixed climb close to Sand in Taufers in the South Tyrol, Italy.
The video of the first ascent of Sagzahn-Verschneidung, a mixed climb established by David Lama and Peter Mühlburger in 2018 up Mt. Sagwand in Austria’s Valsertal.
Denis Trento reports about a new winter climb up the east face of Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort in the Mont Blanc massif. The outing was completed with Marco Farina and Marco Majori after a first attempt with Andrea Peron.
Dolomites ice climbing: at the end of 2018 in the Langental - Vallunga, Petr Vejvoda and Jan Zahula established Ultimo Minuto, a new mixed climb to the right of the famous icefall Piovra.
On 20 December 2018 Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski made the first free ascent of Parallel World, a dry tooling climb that crosses a 60-meter horizontal roof at crag Tomorrow's World in the Italian Dolomites. Graded D16, if the grade is confirmed, this checks in as one of the most difficult dry tooling climbs in the world.
