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    Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall
    17.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Mountaineering exploration in Pakistan for Matteo della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani, David Hall

    A group of Italian mountaineers comprised of Matteo della Bordella, Maurizio Giordani, Massimo Faletti and David Hall are about to embark on a one-month expedition to explore unchartered mountains in Pakistan.

    Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award
    14.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award

    In September 2019 the Polish mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki will receive the Piolets d'Or Carrière 2019. In the past this prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold Messner, Doug Scott, Robert Paragot, Kurt Diemberger, John Roskelley, Chris Bonington, Wojciech Kurtyka, Jeff Lowe and Andrej Štremfelj.

    Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal
    11.06.2019 by Márek Holeček in Alpinism

    Chamlang UFO Line: Márek Holeček reports of alpine style first ascent in Nepal

    Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in the mountains.'

    Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
    07.06.2019 by Simon Richardson in Alpinism

    Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson

    Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.

    Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta
    05.06.2019 by Denis Trento in Alpinism

    Denis Trento and his exceptional spring ski mountaineering in Valle d'Aosta

    Anomalous spring conditions across the Alps were exploited to the max by Denis Trento who managed to ski almost every day up in the Valle d’Aosta mountains. While “seeking the best conditions rather than famous descents”, Trento’s mountaineering always starts directly from the valley floor, is fast & light and at times resorts to using a bike to reduce the approach times.

    Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China
    04.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China

    Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.

    Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl
    03.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Bischofsmütze North Face, new mixed climb established by Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer, Hans Zlöbl

    Mountaineering in East Tyrol: Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini, Matthias Wurzer and Hans Zlöbl have made the first ascent of Kitchen Window, a 'severe mixed climb' up the North Face of Bischofsmütze in Austria.

    Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
    01.06.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard

    Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.

    Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti

    Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti

    Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.

    David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen
    27.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Interviews

    David Göttler and his Everest attempt without supplementary oxygen

    Interview with German mountaineer David Göttler after his attempt to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen. The 40-year-old climbed the Normal Route on the Nepalese side of the mountain and aborted his attempt at an altitude of 8650 meters, a mere 200 vertical meters below the summit.

    The Principles of Alpine Climbing / Mountain safety with Steve House
    24.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    The Principles of Alpine Climbing / Mountain safety with Steve House

    American alpinist Steve House has created a free video series entitled Alpine Principles to teach the climbing community how to make better decisions in the mountains.

    Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
    24.05.2019 by Ezio Marlier in Alpinism

    Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif

    Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.

    Chamlang NW Face climbed by Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák
    23.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Chamlang NW Face climbed by Márek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák

    Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Zdeněk Hák have climbed a new route up the NW Face of Chamlang in Nepal.

    Everest new route attempt by Cory Richards and Esteban Mena
    15.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Everest new route attempt by Cory Richards and Esteban Mena

    Mountaineers Cory Richards from the USA and Esteban ‘Topo’ Mena from Ecuador are currently trying to forge a new climb up the NE Face of Everest. Kami Rita Sherpa has just climbed the highest mountain in the world for a record-breaking 23rd time.

    Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
    13.05.2019 by Planetmountain in Interviews

    Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president

    Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.

    Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
    03.05.2019 by Tito Arosio in Alpinism

    Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face

    On 31/03/2019 Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti made the first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Piz Buin (3312m) in the Silvretta group of the Rhaetian Alps. Arosio reports

    Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
    30.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Interviews

    Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy

    Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)

    Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell
    23.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley: the families bid farewell

    On Sunday 21 April 2019 the bodies of mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Jess Roskelley were recovered after being caught by an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada last week. We publish the press release of Parks Canada and also the farewells of the respective families.

    David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
    19.04.2019 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

    David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers

    Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.

    Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley
    19.04.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

    Hopes dwindle for Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley

    The authorities at Parks Canada have issued a statement in which three mountaineers, presumed to be David Lama, Jess Roskelley and Hansjörg Auer, have died in an avalanche on Howse Peak in Canada.

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