Chimera Verticale - Punta Civetta

Alessandro Baù
1 / 10
Chimera Verticale: Chimera Verticale
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia, Alessandro Beber, Luca Matteraglia 2007 & 2008. First winter ascent: Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth, 29/02 - 02/03/2021. First rope-solo ascent: Janluca Kostner 13-14/09/2022
By
Alessandro Baù
Orientation
Northwest
Length
600m + 300m pedestal at base
Difficulty
IX

Route



Chimera Verticale is an extremely logical and elegant line up the legendary NW Face of Civetta. It weaves its way through all the weakpoints on the the pillar to reach the summit of Punta Civetta between the routes Aste and Andrich. The route boasts a series of pitches up fantastic rock, while others "need understanding". In short, this is a full alpine outing.
Getting there
From Listolade, in Valle Agordina, a few km after Agordo turn off for Capanna Trieste (tel. 0437.660122) and park the car here. Access
The pedestal is shared with the routes Aste and Andrich. After circa 1 hour reach the obvious V at the base of the Punta Civetta pillar, formed by the Aste and Andrich corners and follow the Andrich corner for a couple of meters to reach the slab at the centre of the pillar at the first weakpoint. Gear
All the pegs used during the first ascent were left in-situ, all belays are equipped. Take a set of Metolius micro 0,1,2 and Camalot from 0,3 to 4, twin sets of 0,5 and 0,75. A set of nuts, hammer and pegs.
Notes
First ascentionsits: Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia, Alessandro Beber, Luca Matteraglia in 8 days between summer 2007 and 2008.
1st repeat and free ascent except for the penultimate pitch: Alessandro Baù and Michele Chinello 12/8/2009; 16/8/2009 free ascent of the penultimate pitch, by abseiling from above: Alessandro Baù and Matteo Baù

If you plan on repeating the route in a day you have to climb extremely quickly otherwise, for those in search of an adventure, we recommend the excellent Hotel Transcivetta located at the end of the 8th pitch; a fantastic balcony with splendid views onto the Marmolada where we bivvied on numerous occasions.




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30/08/2014 Alex Walpoth
Ripetuta il 29 agosto 2014 con Martin Dejori. Bellissima via, compiutamente alpinistica. I tiri sono tutti o difficili o da salire in modo prudente, l'arrampicata si svolge perlopiù in fessure, che richiedono tanta forza e resistenza. Fortunatamente siamo entrambi riusciti a salire tutti i tiri in libera e al primo tentativo, suddividendoli in modo equo. I chiodi sono pochi, ma con i friends suggeriti si integra facilmente. Eravamo belli stanchi e felici in cima, congratulazioni a Alessandro Baú e compagni per questa grande via!
Beauty
First ascent
Alessandro Baù, Daniele Geremia, Alessandro Beber, Luca Matteraglia 2007 & 2008. First winter ascent: Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth, 29/02 - 02/03/2021. First rope-solo ascent: Janluca Kostner 13-14/09/2022
By
Alessandro Baù
Orientation
Northwest
Length
600m + 300m pedestal at base
Difficulty
IX

Route



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