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Tingeling: Hansjörg Auer on the traverse on pitch 3 (7c). Photo by Reinhard Fichtinger
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Hansjörg Auer & Much Mayr 07/2010. First free ascent: Andreas Klarstøm, Thomas Meling
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
North
Length
400m
Height
1009m
Difficulty
7c+
Period
Summer
Route
Tingeling is a combination of two existing aid routes, "Bongo Bar" and "Atlantis" first attempted by Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr who were thwarted by poor conditions. The route was freed by Norway's Andreas Klarstøm and Thomas Meling in summer 2011.
Getting there
Blamannen is located close to idyllic town Tromsø, on the island Kvaloya and can be reached easily by plane. From Tromsø, drive for circa 35 minutes towards Tromvik. The wall cannot be missed. Follow an undefined path for circa 45 minutes up to a small lake, ideal for base camp (circa 300m height gain). From here continue on foot to the base of the routes in 45 minutes, via a snow field at the start of the season. The last section is often very swampy. Access
Start just to the left of Arctandria. Climb up the small pedestal via the fixed rope. The route proper begins at the end of the fixed rope. Itinerary
P1: 55m, 7b+
P2: 35m, 7c+
P3: 30m, 7c
P4: 30m, 6c+
P5: 30m, 6c
P6: 15m, 6a
P7: 6b
P8: 7a
P9: 6b
P10: 5c Descent
Descend easily via the eastern ridge and then down ledges back to the start of the route. Gear
1 Bolt, pegs, Cooperheads, nuts, Camelots up to #4 Notes
Apart from "Atlantis", "Arctandria" and "Ultima Thule", "Tingeling" is now the 4th free route up this circa 400m high rock face.
Blamannen is located close to idyllic town Tromsø, on the island Kvaloya and can be reached easily by plane. From Tromsø, drive for circa 35 minutes towards Tromvik. The wall cannot be missed. Follow an undefined path for circa 45 minutes up to a small lake, ideal for base camp (circa 300m height gain). From here continue on foot to the base of the routes in 45 minutes, via a snow field at the start of the season. The last section is often very swampy. Access
Start just to the left of Arctandria. Climb up the small pedestal via the fixed rope. The route proper begins at the end of the fixed rope. Itinerary
P1: 55m, 7b+
P2: 35m, 7c+
P3: 30m, 7c
P4: 30m, 6c+
P5: 30m, 6c
P6: 15m, 6a
P7: 6b
P8: 7a
P9: 6b
P10: 5c Descent
Descend easily via the eastern ridge and then down ledges back to the start of the route. Gear
1 Bolt, pegs, Cooperheads, nuts, Camelots up to #4 Notes
Apart from "Atlantis", "Arctandria" and "Ultima Thule", "Tingeling" is now the 4th free route up this circa 400m high rock face.
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Beauty
First ascent
Hansjörg Auer & Much Mayr 07/2010. First free ascent: Andreas Klarstøm, Thomas Meling
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
North
Length
400m
Height
1009m
Difficulty
7c+
Period
Summer
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
29/07/2010 - Climbing
Tingeling, new link-up on Blamann by Hansjörg Auer & Much Mayr The Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have established Tingeling (400m 7c+), a new free enchainement up the massive granite Blamann tower. Due to prohibitive conditions the route still awaits...