The King of Fanes
The King of Fanes is a great multi-pitch climb that breaches spectacular rock on the south face of Col Bechei. The first pitch was added immediately after the first ascent and starts off up loose rock. It can be avoided via the ramp on the right, resulting in a more amenable 6c/6c+, 6b obligatory.
From the Fanes hut at 2060m walk up to the Limo col at 2174m and continue to Lake Limo. At the end of this, at the signpost, follow the path to the left that leads towards Col Bechei for about 150 meters, then continue right (SSE) following the path, gaining circa 40 meters in altitude and then descend approx. 80 m through a valley, following a track used by chamois that runs along under the lower SE face. Continue slightly uphill, following cairns, to reach an old tree. From here you can clearly make out the rock face. Scramble up the steep grassy slopes to reach the base of the wall. The start is located to the left of the obvious yellow arches/overhangs. The first pitch can be avoided on the lift. Circa 1 hour from the Fanes refuge.
From the summit, cairn, traverse right (facing the mountain) slightly uphill to quickly reach the path that descends from the summit to Col Bechei. Follow this for 20 minutes down to Lake Limo.
12 quickdraws, a set of cams (Camalot 0,3 - 2)
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