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Speta che vegno

First ascent: Nicola Cont, Martin Giovanazzi, Elio Mazzalai 10/05/2019
By: Martin Giovanazzi
Area: Brescia and Garda pre-Alps, Group: Valle del Sarca, Peak: Croz dele Mirandole - Roccione di Ranzo, Valle del Sarca, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Climbed it trad wherever possible and added bolts where the compact slabs accepted no gear. The first ascent was carried out over several days throughout autumn and winter. The climb has been called Speta che Vegno, wait for us, because it took us several attempts in part due to bad weather and in part due to the aspect of the face, which in good weather becomes a real oven. The climb ascends slabs and beautiful compact rock, apart from the last pitch which is discontinuous; this weaves its way past a series of ledges up the best looking rock.

GETTING THERE

From Arco head towards Sarche, then Trento and finally Vezzano. Pass the center, at the junction for Margone continue straight along the old road towards Ranzo. 500m before reaching this park in the layby (two cars).

ACCESS

Return for 100m past two iron bolts until you reach a third. Abseil off from here.

NOTES

60m half ropes, a set of camalots up to yellow BD or set of Totems and set of nuts, 12 quickdraws.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7b

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c

FACE

South

LENGTH

120 m

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