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Occhi d'Acqua

First ascent: Marco Bozzetta, Costante Carpella, ground-up, 09/2015
By: Marco Bozzetta, Mountain Guide
Area: Dolomites, Group: Marmolada, Peak: Torre del Formenton, Height: 2875m, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

Outstanding climbing in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. The route climbs smooth slabs immediately to the left of the classic 1968 Gogna route, and offer technical climbing up rock reminiscent of that found on Marmolada or in the Rätikon. The route was established ground-up the bottom and took 3 days of hard work, in particular transporting the gear to the base of the face up the steep scree slope. The belays are excellent and enable a quick abseil in case of problems. The view from the summit onto the south face of Marmolada and the surrounding mountains is breathtaking. Not to be missed.


From Moena reach Passo di San Pellegrino and drive down the other side of the pass to to the first junction on the left for Baita Flora Alpina. Follow this road to a bridge over river Zigole and park on the left in a large layby.


From the car park, follow the road signposted for Rifugio Fuciade. Right behind the hut a path leads through the meadows towards Forca Rossa. Follow this uphill, crossing a ridge (aqueduct) and then enter the beautiful alpine meadow basin from where you can already seeTorre del Formenton. At the end of the meadows take the poorly indicated trail (#670). Continue up this to where it joins other paths, indicated. Head right for 50m to reach a point directly below the tower, then leave the path and scramble leftwards up the grassy slope past boulders to the base of the long and steep scree slope below the tower. Continue along the track past the occasional cairn marker to reach a gully with boulders and huge rocks below the face. Scramble up this past grade I climbing to reach the actual base of the wall. The route starts immediately to the line of cracks climbed by Gogna in 1968. Bolt visibile from below. 2 hours.


P1: 30m. 6b. Warm-up pitch along a nice pillar.
P3: 30m. 7b. Splendid pitch with difficult and technical crux sequence.
P3: 20m. 7a. Superb stamina pitch past technical moves.
P4: 35m. 6c. Great pocketed slab.
P5: 20m. 6b. Greta pocketed wall with crux at end.
P6: 30m. 6b+. Great technical slab, exit up dirty rock.
P7: 40 m. 6c+. Pumpy start followed by technical slab.
P8: 35m. 7a+. Difficult steep wall at start, followed by friable crack to the summit.


Abseil down the route.


10 quickdraws, 1 x 60m rope.

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II° S3 7b








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