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Rien ne va plus - Sas Ciampac

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Simon Kehrer, Mountain Guide

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Rien ne va plus

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Beauty

First ascent

Christoph Hainz, Simon Kehrer 10/2013

Simon Kehrer, Mountain Guide

Orientation

South

Length

435m

Height

2672m

Difficulty

7b+

Obligatory difficulty

Route

Pleasant climb established over 6 days between 3 and 28 October 2013. Rien ne va plus is certainly a good choice for spring or autumn given its exposure: south at first and then, after the 10th pitch, west. The route follows the line of best rock and offers varied climbing. According to the first ascentionists Rien ne va plus will soon become highly popular.

Getting there
From Passo Gardena descend towards Corvara, park the car at the first hairpin bend. Access
Scramble up the meadow (north) for 50m then follow the path right towards Rifugio Forcelles. Where this levels out close to the south face continue past a barn, then bear left to follow the track to reach the face. The start is located 20m to the left of Via Adang. The approach takes circa 1 hour from the car park. Itinerary

P1: 45m, 6b/c

P2: 45m, 6b+

P3: 35m, 6a+

P4: 40m, 6c+

P5: 35m, 6c+

P6: 25m, 7b

P7: 30m, 4a+

P8: 25m, 6c+

P9: 30m, 7a

P10: 20m, 7b

P11: 30m, 7b+

P12: 30m, 7a+

P13: 20m, 6c+

P14: 15m, 7a

Descent
From the top of the route scramble up and right, following the track for circa 100m to reach the summit. Descend via the obvious path west down to the Crespeina col, where it joins up with path #2 that leads down to Passo Gardena via Rifugio Jimmy and, after circa 1.5 hours, the car. Gear
12 quickdraws, take some Friends up to mid size.
Insitu gear: bolts and some pegs