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Astro Zap - Le Trident du Tacul

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Lamberto Camurri

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Astro Zap: Le Trident du Tacul, South Face

Planetmountain

Beauty

First ascent

Giovanni Bassanini, Lamberto Camurri, 4/09/2013

Lamberto Camurri

Orientation

Height

3693m

Difficulty

7a max

Route

On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.

Itinerary
Set off up the the splitter crack, vertical at first and then overhanging (6c) and reminiscent of Astroman on Washington Column in Yosemite, before tackling the chimney (6b+), and then the long overhanging hand crack (7a). Descent
Abseil down the route Eclipse. Gear

2 full sets of cams, 1 camalot #3. Take a gear bag to the Lepiney ledge.

Notes
The belays were bolted by Francesco Civra, while the route is named in honour of Cosimo Zappelli who removed a large number of the 90 pegs and wooden wedges used during the first ascent of the face.