Dall'alba al tramonto - Presolana Centrale
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Stefano Codazzi
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Dall'alba al tramonto: Dall alba al tramonto
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Stefano Codazzi, Daniele Natali 10/08/2013
By
Stefano Codazzi
Orientation
SE
Length
230m
Difficulty
6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Demanding route that requires experience in placing natural pro. During the first repeat four bolts were added to protect the exposed sections.
Access
Reach the Presolana pass (1297m) at Castione della Presolana. From here continue along path #315 towards malga Cassinelli, at this hut continue up the steep path which leads to the obvious base of the South Face (2100m). From here traverse circa 150m right to the start of the route (route name at the base). 1:30 from the pass. The route starts circa 10m to the right of Alien. Name and thread at base of the route. Itinerary
P1: 5c, 40m
P2: 5c, 45m
P3: 6b+, 45m
P4: 6b, 20m
P5: 6c, 40m
P6: 6b, 40m Gear
Established groun-up on 10 August.
Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support
Reach the Presolana pass (1297m) at Castione della Presolana. From here continue along path #315 towards malga Cassinelli, at this hut continue up the steep path which leads to the obvious base of the South Face (2100m). From here traverse circa 150m right to the start of the route (route name at the base). 1:30 from the pass. The route starts circa 10m to the right of Alien. Name and thread at base of the route. Itinerary
P1: 5c, 40m
P2: 5c, 45m
P3: 6b+, 45m
P4: 6b, 20m
P5: 6c, 40m
P6: 6b, 40m Gear
13 8mm stainless steel bolts placed on route, plus the belays with abseil ring (except for 4th belay). Take 2 x 60m ropes, 8 quickdraws, a full set of Alien camming devices (or similar) + #2 and 3 BD, kevlar and carabiners forthe threads. Medium tricram may be found useful.
NotesEstablished groun-up on 10 August.
Thanks to Climbing Technology for the technical support
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Beauty
First ascent
Stefano Codazzi, Daniele Natali 10/08/2013
By
Stefano Codazzi
Orientation
SE
Length
230m
Difficulty
6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II
Obligatory difficulty
6b+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
05/09/2013 - Climbing
Dall’alba al tramonto, new route on Presolana by Codazzi e Natali On 10/08/2013 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Dall’alba al tramonto (6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II, 230m), a new climb up the SE Face of...