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Testa o Croce

First ascent: Nicola Tondini e Nicola Sartori. Spring 2009 - 30/10/09. FFA: Nicola Sartori, April 2010. 2nd RP Nicola Tondini, 16/04/2011
By: Nicola Tondini
Area: Val Adige, Group: Brentino, Peak: Monte Cimo - Scoglio dei Ciclopi, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino Alto Adige

The route offers varied climbing up magnificent rock: a warm-up pitch up "coral-like" rock is followed by a very overhanging pitch with a no-hands rest at half-height and a hard fingery sequence to reach the belay. Pitch 3, after a just-off vertical section, offers technical slab climbing. Pitch 4 is the "work of art" offered to us by Val d'Adige: a first section up micro-pockets is followed by a Verdonesque limestone wave, with a series of slight overhangs and slabs climbed with a series of uniquely beautiful moves. This severe 8a+ pitch alone is worth the entire route, and it is followed by the "kick in the teeth" final 5th pitch: an intense boulder crux gives the pitch, and the route, its 8b grade.

GETTING THERE

Take the A22 Brennero - Verona motorway, exit at Affi, follow signs for Spiazzi (right at the first roundabout, left at the next turnoff. At Zuane (5.5 km) turn off right for Brentino-Trento. Take the state road for Rovereto-Trento and park the car shortly before the sign for Preabocco.

ROUTE

P1: 30m, 6b+, 5 bolts
P2: 30m, 7c+, 7 bolts
P3: 30m, 7c, 8 bolts
P4: 50m, 8a+, 10 bolts
P5: 45m, 8b, 9 bolts

DESCENT

Abseil with an 80m rope or two half-ropes

NOTES

The route was established ground-up with a strict ethic up fantastic rock, over a period of days using cliffhooks only to place the stainless steel bolts. Pro is run-out and the route is both physically and psychologically demanding.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

8b

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7c

LENGTH

185m

LINK ZONE

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LINK

www.xmountain.it

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GROUP

Peak

Route

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The information is indicative and subject to change due to the nature of the mountain environment. Given the inherently risky nature of the activities described within, Planetmountain.com does not assume any responsibility for the use of the information published.
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