Pacchia - Castelletto

Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Marco Sterni & Mauro Florit, summer 2003
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
NW
Length
220m
Height
2656m
Difficulty
6c+
Obligatory difficulty
6c

Route



Beautiful route up the NW Face of the Castelletto. The route, bolted from the ground up during the first ascent, is equipped with 10mm bolts.
Getting there
From Cortina take the road SS48 that leads up to Passo Falzarego. Park the car about 1km before the pass, next to the bar/restaurant Ra Nona (1985m). Access
Take path no. 412 that leads away from the bar towards Forcella Col dei Bos. After 10 minutes the path transforms into a dirt track; continue up to the Col (2330m), and from here do not follow signs right for the "Ferrata del Castelletto", but instead proceed along the path that leads to Val Travenanzes until the sign for "Ferrata Lipella". Turn off right, reach the "mysterious boulder" (so-called as it is neatly divided in half) and continue on for a further 5 minutes to reach the north-west face of the Castelletto (1.15 hrs from the car). The bolts can be easily seen from the path: Pacchia starts to the left of the yellow roof, close to the massive grey wet streak. Descent
From the summit either abseil using one 70m rope or, more comfortably, from the final belay treverse left along the wide ledge that leads onto the other side of the Castelletto. From here continue down the path in roughly 20 minutes to the base of the routes. Gear
8 quickdraws and one 70m rope. Notes
The route is equipped with 57 bolts, 18 for the belays, and one on the summit to reach the crest.




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24/07/2010 matteo poli
10-7-2010 gran bella via, roccia ottima, molto chiodata.il tiro di 7a+ secondo me non supera il 6c.complimenti agli apritori
08/08/2009 Amos
Una gran bella Via su roccia stupenda ormai completamente ripulita dalle molte ripetizioni. 6c e 7a "umani" Tutti i 220m di dislivello della Via sono continui e impegnativi: necessario muoversi bene su difficolta' di 6c. Protezioni ottime anche se forse in qualche punto un po' distanziate.
08/08/2009 franco blanchini
bellissima via. complimenti (e ringraziamenti) a Marco e Mauro p.s. secondo me i gradi sono 6c+ sul tetto e 6c+ (6c obb) sul 7 tiro
26/06/2006 franz
bella via, roccia super.la difficolta' max reale pero' sara' 6b+.