Non ci resta che piangere - Piz Ciavazes

Planetmountain
1 / 4
Non ci resta che piangere
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Edy Boldrin e Dario Feller. FFA: Martin & Florian Riegler 12/01/2012
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
South
Length
250m
Difficulty
7a/A2
Obligatory difficulty
6b/A2

Route



The route climbs between the obvious corner taken by Via Zeni and the arete of Via Italia 61, up a series of slabs and two alrge overhangs. The climbing is technical on yellow and grey limestone which is almost always solid, the two aid pitches ruin the general feel of the route. The belays and pitches are equipped with in-situ gear, some threads are tattered.
Getting there
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
Walk up the path and head towards the obvious arete and roofs breached by Via Italia 61. Reach the base of the arete and scramble up the grassy pedestal on the left, keeping close to the rock face. The route starts at the base of a grey slab (thread). Descent
From the summit walk leftwards (east) towards the Murfried towers and then follow a broken path down to the base. Gear
14 quickdraws. Nuts, camming devices, some tricams, plenty of kevlar threads.




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22/05/2010 marco furlani
comlimenti
07/08/2003 checco
La via sarebbe bella, è rovinata da due tiri di artif poco piacevoli. Al posto di qualche clessidra piccola ci starebbe bene uno spit.