Diedro Fouzigora - Cason de Formin
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Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
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Diedro Fouzigora: Cason de Formin, Dolomites © Alberto De Giuli
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Beauty
First ascent
Marino Bianchi, Dino Menardi 20/08/1944
By
Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Orientation
NE
Difficulty
VI+
Route
In August 2014 the tireless Massimo Da Pozzo and his friend Samuele Majoni chose to restore a great, old route to its former glory: Diedro Fouzigora. Established on 20 August 1944 by Marino Bianchi Fouzìgora and Dino Menardi Selo up the North Face of Cima Cason de Formin, this route has seen very few repeats in the past, possibly because the first ascentionists left only 4 of the 38 pegs they used in-situ.
Since the route offers some great climbing the two members of the Scoiattoli climbing club decided to retrobolt the route and the final two pitches don't follow the original line chosen by Bianchi and Menardi but climb slightly to the left.
Since the route offers some great climbing the two members of the Scoiattoli climbing club decided to retrobolt the route and the final two pitches don't follow the original line chosen by Bianchi and Menardi but climb slightly to the left.
Thanks to Massimo and Samuele we can now safely repeat this route: all belays are quipped with twin bolts and some bolts have also been placed along the pitches.
Since the route offers some great climbing the two members of the Scoiattoli climbing club decided to retrobolt the route and the final two pitches don't follow the original line chosen by Bianchi and Menardi but climb slightly to the left.
Thanks to Massimo and Samuele we can now safely repeat this route: all belays are quipped with twin bolts and some bolts have also been placed along the pitches.
Getting there
From Cortina d’Ampezzo drive towards Passo Falzarego to Pocol. Shortly after this, head left and take the road # 638 for Passo Giau. From the fork at Pocol drive for 4 km and park at the narrow lay-by. From here walk left (south) along the popular path that leads to Rifugio Palmieri and Croda da Lago. Access
Follow path #437 towards Rifugio Palmieri. At the Cason de Formin fork (1848 m) head right along path #435 towards Forcella Formin. When the path steepens, leave this at hairpin bend that turns back right, and continue along the obvious track the leads off leftwards , before scrambling up towards the base of Cason de Formin. Reach the base and continue left up the scree to quickly reach the start of the route (1.10 hours) Itinerary
Walk along the ledge eastwards and descend left down the scree gully to quickly reach the start of the route (circa 30 minutes). Gear
Take a full rack including Camalot Black Diamond camming devices up to # 3 (blue). Notes
Massimo da Pozzo recommends avoiding pitch 1, not great fun and on poor rock, and instead climbing the first 6a pitch of "Buon compleanno Nat", past its first belay to reach the first belay of Diedro Fouzigora.
For the record, Fouzìgora was the nickname given to Marino Bianchi (nicknames are widely used to distinguish the various family members and avoid confusion) and in local Ampezzo dialect means grasshopper
From Cortina d’Ampezzo drive towards Passo Falzarego to Pocol. Shortly after this, head left and take the road # 638 for Passo Giau. From the fork at Pocol drive for 4 km and park at the narrow lay-by. From here walk left (south) along the popular path that leads to Rifugio Palmieri and Croda da Lago. Access
Follow path #437 towards Rifugio Palmieri. At the Cason de Formin fork (1848 m) head right along path #435 towards Forcella Formin. When the path steepens, leave this at hairpin bend that turns back right, and continue along the obvious track the leads off leftwards , before scrambling up towards the base of Cason de Formin. Reach the base and continue left up the scree to quickly reach the start of the route (1.10 hours) Itinerary
P1: IV e V
P2: VI
P3: VI
P4: VI+
P5: VI
DescentWalk along the ledge eastwards and descend left down the scree gully to quickly reach the start of the route (circa 30 minutes). Gear
Take a full rack including Camalot Black Diamond camming devices up to # 3 (blue). Notes
Massimo da Pozzo recommends avoiding pitch 1, not great fun and on poor rock, and instead climbing the first 6a pitch of "Buon compleanno Nat", past its first belay to reach the first belay of Diedro Fouzigora.
For the record, Fouzìgora was the nickname given to Marino Bianchi (nicknames are widely used to distinguish the various family members and avoid confusion) and in local Ampezzo dialect means grasshopper
See all photosBeauty
First ascent
Marino Bianchi, Dino Menardi 20/08/1944
By
Enrico Maioni, Mountain Guide
Orientation
NE
Difficulty
VI+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Primo tiro: 50 metri Secondo / Terzo 30 metri (la sosta del terzo tiro è un chiodo e un fix), quarto tiro 20 metri (1 fix + 1 chiodo). quinto tiro 45 metri, 1 fix di sosta. Le soste a spit e quella manciata di piastrine lungo i tiri non tolgono nulla all'impegno complessivo della salita. Merita una ripetizione!