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Crags > Malham Cove

Malham Cove

England>Yorkshire>Malham
Nicholas Hobley
Traduci in
1 / 1
Beauty
Sectors
GO
Difficulty
5a -9a+
Height
100m
Routes number
150
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
S
Rope
70m single rope or two half-ropes.


Renowned as being one of most spectacular pieces of limestone scenery in country, Malham Cove is also widely regarded as the crucible of British sports climbing. As the young sport developed through its initial phases in the 1980's, this 300m wide amphitheatre rapidly became the scene of some of the finest and most coveted bolt routes in the country. The imposing limestone walls are literally draped in Britain's sport climbing history: five-star classics such as New Dawn and Zoolook stand testament to Ron Fawcett's strength and vision in the mid 80's, while local hardman John Dunne powered standards to a new limit at the turn of the decade with his icons such as Breach of the Peace, Predator and Magnetic Fields. Some of Britain's best, including the likes of Mark Leach, Tony Ryan and Mick Lovatt all ensured that Malham continued to evolve in the years that followed, but it wasn't until Steve McClure picked up the pieces with his Rainshadow 9a and Overnite Sensation ext 9a+ that Malham returned to the forefront of British, and world, sport climbing extremes. Although Malham boasts an incredible selection of bolt routes, those in search of trad adventures will not be disapponted by the climbs on its upper wings. Classics such as Junkyard Angel HVS 5b, Carnage E2 5b and Wombat E2 5c serve as reminders of what was already being climbed in the 60's and 70's, way before bolts made their appearance!
Access
Malham Cove is located in the Yorkshire Dales National Park, circa 1 hour NW of Leeds. From Skipton drive north to gargrave, then follow signs to Kirby Malham. Continue past this and park at Malham. Continue on foot along Cove road and then turn off right through the gate along the obvious footpath to reach the crag. Logistics
Campsites: Riverside Campsite and Town Head Farm. For these and all other accommodation check out www.malhamdale.com Period
Climbing is possible all year round and although the crag is prone to seepage, the central section remains dry even in the rain. Climb
The climbing at Malham is powerful, technical, fingery and sustained... Notes
Steve McClure climbing Rainshadow 9a at Malham Cove, taken from Psyche - 'Magic Numbers' by Posing Productions



The Yorkshire Dales National Park is famous for being one of the most beautiful areas in Britain. Make sure to check out the limestone paving above the Cove, and don't miss out on nearby Gordale Scar. Bibliography
Northern Limestone by Alan James, Mark Glaister and Chris Craggs



Sectors

Yosemite Wall Area
The routes listed below are taken from the Rockfax guidebook "Northern Limestone" by Alan James, Mark Glaister and Chris Craggs
Routes
N° Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Brilliant, Brilliant 15m 6c
2 Bon-Appetite 15m 7b+
3 The Highlife 15m 7b+
4 Just Not in Lust 20m 7c
5 Mule variations 22m 7b
6 Henry’s Route 22m 7c+
7 Mighty Fine Ass 22m 7c+
8 Appetite 20m 7a+
9 Yosemite Wall 22m 7a+
10 Obligatory Finish 10m E6 6b
11 Against the Grain 22m. 7a
12 Taking the Space 22m 7b
13 Hands of Time 20m 7c
14 Space Race 21m 7b+
15 Space Invaders 10m 7c+
16 Tremelo 22m 7c
17 Minimum Fuss 23m 7c+
18 The Minimum 12m 7a
19 Mescalito 23m 7c+
20 New Dawn 22m 7c
21 Twisted 12m 8a
22 Vogue 20m 7c+
23 Baboo-Baboo 22m 7c+
24 Straightened 22m 8a
Obsession Area
The routes listed below are taken from the Rockfax guidebook "Northern Limestone" by Alan James, Mark Glaister and Chris Craggs
Routes
N° Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Free and Easy 20m 7c
2 Renaissance 20m 7c+
3 Breach of the Peace 12m 8a
4 Climb of the Century 20m 8b
5 L'Ob Session 20m 7c+
6 Obsession 20m 7b+
7 Total Eclipse 12m 9a
8 The New Age Traveller 20m 8a
9 N'Obsession 20m 7c+
10 Herbie 20m 7c+
11 Conehead 20m 8a+
12 Main Overhang 17m 7c+
13 Toadal Recall 18m 8a
14 The Toad of Beck Hall 10m 7b+
15 Toad Licker 10m 7c
16 Toadally Cool 18m 8a+
17 Serious Young Toads 18m 7c
18 The Last Toad 17m 7b+
19 Conceptual 22m 7b
20 Conceptual Continuity 22m 8a
21 The Last Waltz 18m 7a+
22 Seventh Toad 17m E6 6b
23 Gorgan Direct 22m 7b
24 Gorgan Directish 17m 7b
25 Duck Dive 17m E5 6b
26 Gravity 22m 7b
27 Wicked Gravity 22m 8b
28 Donald Ducked 17m E5 6b
29 Laughter 22m 7c+





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Beauty
Sectors
GO
Difficulty
5a -9a+
Height
100m
Routes number
150
Rock type
Limestone
Orientation
S
Rope
70m single rope or two half-ropes.


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