Arco - Massone
Without a doubt one of the most famous crags in Italy and beyond, Massone offers something for everyone. It hosts over 150 routes of all difficulties and angles, from easy slabs to extreme overhangs. The routes climb compact limestone, up edges and tufas, and the entire crag has recently been rebolted. Its ease of access, the picnic area below and the pleasant olive groves help make Massone one of the most popular crags in Northern Italy. It's only negative aspect is the other side of this coin: many of the routes have become extremely polished and the crag, a victim of its own success, is often overcrowded...
The crag can be divided up into three sections. The first, Massone Basso, is ideal for those who climb between 5a-7a, and the routes are on vertical or slabby grey limestone. The second, La Valletta, requires stamina and finger strength for its 35m, slightly overhanging routes, ragning from 7a to 8a. The third, Il Pueblo has become a refereence point for the ultra-overhanging, where strength and stamina are never quite enough... from 7c upwards.
At present climbing is prohibited at the puablo from Hochzeitspfeiler rightwards. These routes have not been included in this list.
From Arco take the highway SS 45 bis towards Trento. After less than 1 km turn off right following signs for Massone. Enter the village, drive through a narrow portico and turn left at the fountain (drinking water). Follow this road up through the olive groves to park infront of the crag at the first hairpin bend or, alternatively, lower down on the left. This land is privately owned - please be a respectful as possible.
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