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Pian Schiavaneis, Dolomites
Francesco Tremolada
Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5b - 8b/c
Height
35 m
Routes number
62
Rock type
White limestone
Orientation
S-SE
Rope
70m


Beneath some of the Dolomites finest mountains, the massive Sella and the imposing Pordoi, lies Pian Schiavaneis, a seemingly insignificant boulder compared to its mighty neighbours. Yet Pian Schiavaneis is anything but insignificant. It has evolved into the Dolomites' crucible of modern sports climbing, a playground for all and testing ground for the best. Thankfully a host of easier routes have recently been created, adding to Pian Schiavaneis' ever increasing popularity. If you are after an alternative to the Dolomites' classics or, why not, a picnic next to some hungry marmots, be sure to stop off here.
Access
From Val Gardena drive to Passo Sella and continue down to the Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi refuges. Leave the car in the car park. From Val di Fassa drive out of Canazei towards Passo Pordoi, turn left for Passo Sella and continue to the refuges. Walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins. Logistics
There are plenty of hotels, B&B's, camping grounds, supermarkets and nightlife in the Val di Fassa. Nearby Val Gardena, on the other side of Passo Sella, is also a great place to stay. Period
Pian Schiavaneis faces SSE and is situated at 2000m. Climbing is possible all year round, but summer afternoons are best. It is possible to climb if it rains but the crag seeps after extended periods of rain. Climb
Its friable overhanging limestone has been chipped, glued and drilled to sculpt routes of all grades, where power and stamina are essential and never enough. Notes
Rifugio Pian Schiavaneis 0462 - 601338 Rifugio Monti Pallidi 0462 - 601337 Apt Canazei 0462 - 301145 Apt Val Gardena 0471-796328-793046-795122 Camping Canazei 0462 - 601660 Camping Campitello 0462 - 750502 Weather forecast Trentino www.provincia.tn.it/meteo Bibliography
"Val di Fassa climbing" by Renato Bernard.

Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti
54 crags in the Dolomites, in 3 languages (German, Italian, English) by Vertical-Life.info, 2013
 
Sportclimbing in the Dolomites, Dolomiten – Dolomiti
English, German, Italian.
by Vertical-Life.info


Download the guide as App Android from Google Play




Sectors

Placca
From the refuges Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
1 Power ranger 5b
2 ? 5c
3 ?
4 ? 8a
5 power ranger plus 7b/c
6 turtles 6b
7 via delle guide 5c
8 variante 6a+
9 gioco da ragaz'i 6b
10 ciamorces 6c
11 signore del male
12 variante 7a+
13 missione impossibile 7c+
Centrale
From the refuges Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
14 Pian schiavaneis 6b
15 la tettona 8a
16 la tettona- plus 8a+
17 linea mortale 8b/c
18 non mollare 8b+
19 super polentin 8b
20 polentin plus 8a+
21 supergrimpe 8a
22 ce chi dice no 8a+
23 samba 7b
24 samba plus 7c
25 ciape e tira 7b+
26 ciape e tira plus 7c+
27 ciape e tira plus plus 8a
28 pascal 7a+
29 pascal plus 7b+
30 lambada 6b
31 lambada plus 7b
32 lambada plus plus 7b/c
33 dirty dancing 7b+
34 dirty dancing plus 7c
35 pregio e privilegio 7b
36 pregio e privilegio plus 7c
37 benvenuto Etienne 7a +
38 benvenuto Etienne plus 7b +
39 capuvers 8a
40 rené's line 7b/c
41 bebé a bordo 7c
42 benedick 7b
43 puffo scalatore 7b
44 pensavo peggio 6c
45 pensavo peggio plus 7a+
Gabriel
From the refuges Pian Schiavaneis and Monti Pallidi walk up the road to the barrier and large boulder on the right. Follow the path and cross the river to reach the grassy slope and crag in 10 mins.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
46 donna dal cuore nero 7a
47 sebastiena 6b
48 sebastiena plus 6c+
49 voglia di volare 6a
50 voglia di volare plus 7a+
51 maldestra 7c
52 petra la dura 7b
53 ... calanques 7a
54 l'amico é N.L.
55 sei forte papà 6c
56 Friends 6b
No Big Area
Small crag to the right of the main wall. Slighlty overhanging one-move wonders.
Routes
Name Height Beauty Difficulty
57 dita violente 10 metri 6b+
58 vulcano 12 m 6b (dulfer)
59 speedy 13 m 6b+
60 camicia e cravatta 13 m 6c+
61 usignolo 5c
62 baby birba 5c





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Beauty
Sectors
Difficulty
5b - 8b/c
Height
35 m
Routes number
62
Rock type
White limestone
Orientation
S-SE
Rope
70m


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