La Severina - Palinuro
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Rolando Larcher
1 / 24
Luigi Merola
La Severina is a splendid crag close to the ruins of the medieval village San Severino, an overhanging forest of stalactites. The starts of the climbs are on suspended ledges, equipped and connected with fixed ropes and ring bolts. Although the ledges are relatively wide, they are not recommended for families with children
Reach San Severino, part of the municipality of Centola, Cilento. Park at the bend from where the path leads to the abandoned medieval village of San Severino. Follow the steps to about 30m from the square piazza della Chiesetta. At this point, on the left, you can clearly make out the only passable point between the outcrops that leads to the grassy ridge below. Climb over the railing and follow the track to the ridge and from here continue heading downwards towards the sea, until you reach a spur. From here it is possible to see the cliff. Continue diagonally along the track, slightly uphill, to reach the base of the cliff. Approach: 15-20 minutes.
LogisticsHighly recommended: Restaurant: Agriturismo Isca delle Donne, Palinuro. Apartments: Case Vacanze Parco nel Sole, Palinuro.
PeriodThe cliff faces east and gets the shade at around 1pm. The tufas seep only after extended periods of rain and are therefore dry for most of the year.
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| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Ricercati | 28m |  |
7c |
| Zio Tibia 2019. 13 rinvii | ||||
| 2 | Pastore Jack | 18m, 28m | |
6b+, 7a+/7b |
| Zio Tibia 2019. 13 rinvii | ||||
| 3 | El Süga | 18m, 35m | |
L1 6c, 7b+/7c |
| Franz Mich 2019. 14 rinvii | ||||
| 4 | Giuda Iscariota | 18m | |
6c |
| Zio Tibia 2020. 7 rinvii | ||||
| 5 | Bepi-No! | 18m | |
7a+ |
| Zio Tibia 2020. 8 rinvii | ||||
| 6 | Alice | 18m | |
7a |
| Zio Tibia 2020. 8 rinvii | ||||
| 7 | Margherita | 18m, 35m | |
7b, 7c+ |
| Zio Tibia 2021. 14 rinvii | ||||
| 8 | Palimuro | 35m | |
7c+ |
| Franz Mich 2019. 14 rinvii | ||||
| 9 | Diretta Italo-Svedese | 28m | |
8b+? |
| Tiziano Buccella 2019. 12 rinvii | ||||
| 10 | Mare-Sciallo | 28m | |
8b/8b+ |
| Rolando Larcher 2019. 12 rinvii | ||||
| 11 | Half Fingers | 30m | |
? |
| Gianguido Dalfovo 2023 | ||||
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 12 | Polipi Fritti | 35m | |
7c+ |
| Zio Tibia 2019. 19 rinvii | ||||
| 13 | Big Black Bamboo | 35m | |
7c+ |
| Zio Tibia 2019. 18 rinvii | ||||
| 14 | Nato The First | 35m | |
7c+/8a |
| Rolando Larcher. 15 rinvii. Il 1°tiro, agosto 2019 | ||||
| 15 | 100 La Qualunque | 35m | |
8a+ |
| Rolando Larcher 2019. 15 rinvii | ||||
| 16 | Mister Provvisorio | 32m, 37m | |
7c, ? |
| Nicola Sartori 2019. 16 rinvii | ||||
| 17 | Roccia Gloriosa | 32m,37m | |
7c+/8a, ? |
| Nicola Sartori 2019. 16 rinvii | ||||
| 18 | Tufas Party | 35m, 40m | |
8a, ? |
| Tiziano Buccella 2019. 17 rinvii | ||||
| 19 | € 6.50 Rimborso | 20m, 38m | |
7a+, 8a |
| Herman Zanetti 2019. 16 rinvii | ||||
| 20 | La Verita’ B. Sas | 24m, 38m | |
7c, 8a+ |
| Rolando Larcher 2021 | ||||
| 21 | El Truffa | 24m, 36m | |
7c+, ? |
| Fabio Leoni 2021 | ||||
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 22 | Dj Rolando Larcher | 26m | |
7c |
| Fabio Leoni 2021 | ||||
| 23 | Cippodromo | 22m, 40m | |
6c+, 7c+ |
| Herman Zanetti 2019. 17 rinvii | ||||
| 24 | Resilienza | 25m, 40m | |
7a+, 8a/8a+ |
| Rolando Larcher 2022. 20 rinvii | ||||
| 25 | Enigma | 18m, 35m | |
7b+, 8b+? |
| Franz Mich 2021 | ||||
| 26 | Route 66 | 35m | |
8a/8a+ |
| Franz Mich 2022. 22 rinvii | ||||
| 27 | Zio Paletta | 33m | |
7c+ |
| Zio Tibia 2021 | ||||
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 28 | La Chiave? | 30m | |
8a+ |
| Zio Tibia 2022 | ||||
| N° | Name | Height | Beauty | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Luciccia | 20m | |
6a |
| Zio Tibia 2021 | ||||
| 2 | Matitti | 20m | |
6b |
| Zio Tibia 2021 | ||||
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