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Muzzerone Parete Centrale

By: Davide Battistella
Country: Italy, Region: Liguria, Town: Portovenere (La Spezia)

This is the most famous and popular crag in Muzzerone. Easy access and numerous routes of all grades render Parete Centrale ideal for beginners and families, who spend the entire day relaxing in the sun. The drawback: the easiest routes tend to be extremely polished.

Parete Centrale was the first crag to be discovered in the Muzzerone area, thanks to the Italian Navy based in Le Grazie who in the 1970's bolted the first routes here. Numerous well bolted new routes have been added recently to this crag.

NOTA: As of 6/08/2014 the Comune di Porto Venere (La Spezia) has prohibited climbing on and access to Parete Centrale, Monte Muzzerone.


Muzzerone is situated 15 km from La Spezia. Drive towards Portovenere and turn right before reaching Le Grazie (sign posted "Palestra di Roccia"). Follow this for 4km to a fork in the road: turn left and descend past several hairpin bends to Muzzerone. This can also be reached on foot via the panoramic sea paths from Portovenere (path No. 1 or 1a in 30 minutes).


Excellent limestone on often painful edges and pockets. Highly technical and elegant climbing - good footwork essential. There are plenty of overhanging sectors, too. La Polveriera is great for stamina climbs up tufas, while Specchio di Atlantide requires finger strength and courage with its Verdonesque drop. Parete Striata remains uncontaminated and wild and is ideal for multi-pitch routes.


Good refuge 20 mins from Muzzerone by car and 15 mins on foot via a panoramic path. The refuge contains 30 beds, a kitchen and large rooms ideal for lectures or lessons. The sea can be reached in about 20 mins from the refuge, and other paths that lead into the National Park start from here. - Cell. 340.8098720 ETTORE - Mail: rifugiomuzzerone@libero.it


The Muzzerone sea cliffs, situated high above Portovenere, form the extreme tip of the Cinque Terre National Park. This western flank of the Gulf of La Spezia is also known as the Gulf of the poets.

This area is characterised by silver pillars and white limestone faces that precipitate steeply into the sea, and a flora composed of maritime pines and plants typically associated with the Mediterranean environment.

So why visit this area? Because Muzzerone is an area of quite incredible natural beauty. Its cliffs fall steeply into the blue sea, offering marvellous routes and a fantastic spectacle; seagull, raven and falcon display their ability in highly evocative surroundings. Almost all sectors are difficult to reach and this is perhaps the reason why Muzzerone is never overcrowded, since in the past climbers have preferred other crags such as nearby Finale Ligure.

Since climbing is much more than an athletic gesture, Muzzerone is best suited for those in search of bolts, micro-edges and, above all, nature. This element definitely abounds here.

Recommended sectors (540 routes in total)
1. Garimpo
2. Parete Centrale
3. Polveriera
4. Specchio di Atlantide
5. Atlantide Bassa
6. Parete Striata

Other crags within a 50 km radius:
Monte Marcello: 15 km from La Spezia, 21 routes from 5c to 7c
Gabellaccia: 40 km from La Spezia, 60 routes up to 8b+
Deiva Marina: 40 km. from La Spezia, 40 routes from 5a to 7c
Punta Manara: 50 km from La Spezia, 60 routes from 5a to 7b+
Moneglia: 45 km from La Spezia, 20 routes up to 7a
Aiola: 50 km from La Spezia, 30 routes from 6a to 7b


Muzzerone e Levante Ligure Arrampicate sportive by Davide Battistella, Edizione Versante sud

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Climbing is possible all year round thanks to the Mediterranean climate. All sectors face west and are therefore sheltered from the icy northern winds. Climbing is possible in summer by making use of the shade and the fresh afternoon Mistral.






4c - 7c+


Excellent limestone.





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