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Nibbio

Italy>Lombardy>Lecco>Nibbio

Nicola Noé

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Climbing at Nibbio

Planetmountain

Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

6a - 8a

Height

80m

Routes number

Rock type

Compact limestone. grey on the left, white in the center and on the through the overhangs on the right.

Orientation

ENE

Rope

70m rope

Located at the foot of Lecco's Grigna, the Nibbio tower holds an important place in Italian mountaineering history, with the likes of Cassin, Bonatti, Messner and Comici all passing this way.

The climbing varies considerably from thin cracks to overhanging slabs. Classic routes stand side by side to modern sports routes, and the climbing is highly technical, requiring technique, stamina and excellent footwork.

Access

From Lecco follow signs to Ballabio. reach this and turn off left after 1km following signs to "Pian dei Resinelli". After a series of hairpin bends reach this plateau (8km) and park the car on the right. Continue on foot up the road towards Refuge Sem (a bar is located on the left after the corner) and after 100m continue right at the first fork. Reach another fork after 50m and keep right. Walk past two houses and descend for 200m to the end of the road. A path on the right leads swiftly up to the crag (5 mins from the car park).

Period

Summer. The crag faces ENE and is located at 1370m.

Climb

Fingery stamina climbing on small edges and sharp pockets. Most routes have a powerful 7-8 move crux which is followed by technical sequences to the top.

Bibliography

Corti, Quadri, Quaresima, Capucciati, Tassi - Arrampicate Sportive e Moderne fra Lecco e Como - Edizioni Versante Sud.

Nibbio, Lombardy, Italy - Climbing at Nibbio

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Sectors

Nibbio

Crag local Stefano Alippi recommds the following routes:

Routes

N°	Name	Height	Difficulty
1	La Stufetta	20 m	6a
2	Ave Ninchi	25 m	6a+
3	La Ratti	30 m	6b
4	Bo Derek	30 m	6b+
5	Bello tutto il Diedro Boga in un tiro	40 m	6b+
6	Sole di mezzanotte	40 m	6c
7	Il conte Chiappa	30 m	6c
8	L'Ultimo caffè	40 m	6c
9	Astroboy L2	25 m	6c
10	La goduria dell'anguria		6c+
11	Spit e span	40m ;2L.	7a
12	Sant'Elia		7a
13	Gli antenati	30 m	7a+
14	Primo tiro del Triangolo industriale	20 m	7a+
15	Pinciroli	30m	7b+
16	Il pigazzo in decadenza	30m	7c+
17	Mckinley	25m	7c/c+
18	L1 + L2 di "Triangolo industriale"	40 m	7c
19	Slavation	30 m	l'8a
20	Anche qui	25 m	l'8a

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Beauty

Sectors

Difficulty

6a - 8a

Height

80m

Routes number

Rock type

Compact limestone. grey on the left, white in the center and on the through the overhangs on the right.

Orientation

ENE

Rope

70m rope

Position

Crags in the same region